- MOST OF THE DAY SPENT WANDERING AROUND PELICAN TAKING PICTURES AND TALKING TO FOLKS - PICKED UP THE MAIL, BOUGHT A COUPLE OF CHARTS, WALKED OUT TO THE FLATS AGAIN, AND HAD A TOUR OF THE PELICAN SEAFOODS PACKING PLANT (NEVER SAW SO MANY 30 LB PLUS SALMON IN MY LIFE!) - HOWARD BOUGHT SOME SMOKED FISH FROM JOE PADDOCK - PRETTY GOOD STUFF!
1620 - DECIDED TO GO ON DOWN LIZIANSKI STRAIT AND SPEND THE NIGHT AT LOST COVE WHERE WE COULD EASILY SEE WHAT THE WEATHER WAS DOING OUT ON THE GULF - (WE HAD BEEN GETTING REPORTS OF 15 FT SEAS FROM SOME OF THE FISHERMEN BUT COULDN'T PIN DOWN WHEN OR WHERE)
1830 - ANCHORED IN LOST COVE - HAD A BIT OF A TIME FIGURING OUT WHERE TO ANCHOR - THE PILOT ISN'T VERY SPECIFIC AS TO THE LOCATION OF HIS "GOOD HOLDING MUD BOTTOM" - WE FINALLY GOT A GOOD HOOK AND MUST HAVE BEEN PRETTY CLOSE BECAUSE TWO FISHING BOATS JOINED US ABOUT 10:30 PM
1030 - JUST GOT THE METZELER UP AND WERE HAULING ANCHOR WHEN WE GOT A CALL FROM KEN CAMERON ON THE "FINALE" - HE WAS HEADING OUT THE SOUTH ENTRANCE OF LIZIANSKI SO WE LET HIM LEAD THE WAY - HE IS GETTING ANXIOUS TO GET BACK TO SITKA SO HEADED ON SOUTH WHILE WE TURNED IN AT PORCUPINE ROCK AND RAN IN TO PORCUPINE BAY
1230 - ANCHORED IN PORCUPINE RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE WATERFALL - THIS IS A FAIRLY LOW FALL (20 - 30 FEET HIGH) BUT LOTS OF WATER AND MAYBE 50 FEET ACROSS - REALLY A NICE ANCHORAGE!
1330 - HAD SOME LUNCH THEN ALL GOT IN THE METZELER AND HEADED OFF IN SEARCH OF WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS IN BERTHA BAY ABOUT TWO MILES AWAY - WITH FOUR OF US IN IT THE LITTLE BOAT WAS STRUGGLING WITH THE SWELL AND WAVES BUT GOT US THERE IN ABOUT 1/2 HOUR - WE WENT DIRECTLY TO TO PARK SERVICE CABIN AT THE SPRINGS RATHER THAN TO WEST ARM AS CHARLEY'S CHARTS SAY - THERE IS A NICE SAND BEACH IN AN OPENING IN THE ROCK ABOUT 200 YARDS TO THE WEST OF THE CABINS
- A NICE YOUNG COUPLE WERE JUST LEAVING AS WE ARRIVED - THEY ARE FROM BELLINGHAM ON THE "ARCHANGEL", A FISH PACKING BOAT WE SAW IN PELICAN - THEY HAD COME DOWN YESTERDAY DURING THE 15 FOOT SEAS IN A SKIFF! SAID IT WAS PRETTY WILD!
- WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS IS A SUPER PLACE! THERE ARE TWO BUILDINGS ABOUT 100 YARDS OBOVE THE BEACH; ONE A CABIN WITH BUNK BEDS, STOVE, ETC AND A GUEST BOOK WITH LOTS OF INTERESTING ENTRIES - THE OTHER COVERS THE HOT POOL AND OVERLOOKS THE BAY AND OCEAN - THE POOL ITSELF IS BUILT ON THE ROCKS, IS ABOUT 10 BY 15 FEET AND FROM 2 TO 5 FEET DEEP - THERE IS A DRESSING ROOM AND A NICE WOODEN PLATFORM IS ALL AROUND THE POOL WHICH, ON ONE SIDE, IS DESIGNED TO ALLOW YOU TO SOAP UP AND RINSE OFF WITHOUT GETTING SUDS IN THE POOL (THEY EVEN PROVIDED A FOREST SERVICE BUCKET TO RINSE OFF WITH) - THE WATER IS HOT ENOUGH THAT YOU HAVE TO EASE INTO IT AND AFTER ABOUT 10 MINUTES I HAD TO SIT ON THE SIDE FOR A WHILE TO COOL OFF - IT'S REALLY NEAT TO LAY IN THE POOL AND WATCH THE WAVES BREAKING OVER THE ROCKS IN THE BAY BELOW
- AFTER WE WERE SO COOKED WE THOUGHT WE WOULD NEVER BE COLD AGAIN WE PACKED UP AND HEADED BACK TO PORCUPINE - THE WIND HAD PICKED UP A BIT AND THERE WAS NOW A NICE LITTLE CHOP TO HEAD THE METZELER INTO - EVERYONE GOT PRETTY WET AND WERE CERTAINLY COOLED OFF BY THE TIME WE GOT HOME TO THE BOAT
- AFTER THE REST OF THE CREW GOT MOVING AND HAD BREAKFAST WE ALL WENT BACK TO THE ISLAND AND EXPLORED - IT WAS LOW TIDE BY THEN SO LOTS OF NEAT THINGS WERE IN THE POOLS - WE ALSO WENT OVER TO THE FALLS AND WALKED A LITTLE WAY UP THE RIVER - FOUND SOME KIND OF A TRAP STASHED IN THE WOODS
1130 - UP ANCHOR, AND OFF TO MORE ADVENTURE! KIND OF SCARY RUNNING DOWN THIS PART OF THE COAST - LOTS OF ROCKS AND WHEN THE DEPTH SOUNDER KEEPS GOING FROM 30 FATHOMS TO 30 FEET AND YOU AREN'T SURE EXACTLY WHERE YOU ARE BECAUSE THERE ARE NO VISIBLE LANDMARKS NEAR IT'S NERVE RACKING - WE GOT OUT OFF HILL ISLAND WHERE I WAS FEELING A BIT MORE COMFORTABLE AND PUT DOWN THE FISHING GEAR - WE GOT TWO NICE BLACK BASS AND A SMALL YELLOW EYE BEFORE THE SWELL STARTED GETTING TO JUDY AND WE RAN ON IN TO PORTLOCK HARBOR
1400 - THE DAY IS REALLY GETTING NICE NOW IN PORTLOCK - NO WIND AND LOTS OF SUNSHINE - WE WENT UP INTO DIDRICKSON BAY TO LOOK AT THE WATERFALL (NOT VERY IMPRESSIVE! WE'RE GETTING SPOILED!) THEN DOWN TO BLACK BAY - IT IS IMPRESSIVE WITH IT'S WIDE RIVER DELTA AND THE SNOWCAPPED PEAKS IN THE BACKGROUND - A BIG CRUISER, THE "CREOLE" WAS ANCHORED IN THE 12 FATHOM SPOT IN THE BAY AND FOUR PEOPLE WERE OUT FLY FISHING IN THE RIVER - I WAS FEELING MY WAY ALONG THE EDGE OF THE DELTA WHICH SHOALS VERY RAPIDLY WHEN WE EASED TO A STOP, AGROUND! FORTUNATELY, THE TIDE WAS COMING IN AND BEFORE WE EVEN GOT THE METZELER DOWN TO CARRY AN ANCHOR OFF WE FLOATED OFF
- SAW SEVERAL SEA OTTERS ON THE WAY - ONE, ABOUT FIFTY FEET FROM US AS WE CAME BY, LAY ON HIS BACK AND CLAPPED HIS FLIPPERS LOUDLY, APPLAUDING OUR PASSAGE!
1730 - ANCHORED IN KIMSHAN COVE - THERE IS A GOLD MINING OPERATION SUPPOSEDLY GOING ON HERE BUT ALL WE SAW WAS A SURVEY CREW - WE WATCHED ONE GUY COME DOWN THROUGH THE SCRUB ALDER FROM THE TOP OF 2120 FOOT DROOLTH MOUNTAIN WHERE HE HAD SET A MARKER - TOOK HIM OVER AN HOUR - LOTS OF FAIRLY LARGE FISH JUMPING AROUND US BUT JUDY COULD ONLY CATCH TINY COD AND A STAGHORN SCULPIN ON THE BUZZ BOMB
- USED UP ANOTHER OF THE SIX SUNNY DAYS TODAY - JUDY SHOWED UP FOR BREAKFAST WITH RED, WHITE, AND BLUE BALLOONS AND LITTLE FLAGS WITH WHICH TO CELEBRATE!
1000 - OUT OF KIMSHAN COVE WITH THE INTENTION OF GETTING A SALMON FOR DINNER TODAY - STARTED FISHING IN OGDEN PASSAGE BUT NO BITES
1130 - GOT WAYLAID AT THE NORTH END OF SMOOTH CHANNEL BY THE SUNSHINE AND A PRETTY LITTLE GRAVEL BEACH SO WE STOPPED AND HOWARD AND I WENT ASHORE TO EXPLORE - LOTS OF DEER AND OTTER SIGN AND HOWARD SAW TWO OTTERS COME OUT OF THE WATER AND GO BACK IN THE WOODS
1230 - RUNNING DOWN SMOOTH CHANNEL I SPOTTED A BUNCH OF ROCKS THAT DIDN'T SEEM TO BE SHOWN ON THE CHART - AS WE GOT CLOSER IT BECAME OBVIOUS THAT THEY WEREN'T ROCKS BECAUSE THEY WERE FLOATING - THEN WE RECOGNIZED OUR REEF AS 30-40 SEA OTTERS HAVING SOME KIND OF TRIBAL GATHERING, ALL ON THEIR BACKS WITH YOUNG ON THEIR STOMACHS!
1330 - AT THE MOUTH OF SLOCUM ARM NOW AND GETTING DOWN TO SERIOUS FISHING - AFTER PICKING UP A FEW LITTLE ROCK FISH JUDY LATCHED ONTO A NICE TEN POUND KING THEN A LITTLE FOUR POUNDER - HOWARD ALSO PICKED UP A NICE LITTLE LING WHICH MADE A COUPLE OF GOOD FILLETS
1500 - GAVE UP THE FISHING AND RAN THROUGH ELBOW PASSAGE INTO KLAG BAY - ANCHORED JUST SOUTH OF THE GHOST TOWN OF CHICHAGOF AT THE HEAD OF THE BAY AND WENT ASHORE - THIS WAS A PRETTY GOOD SIZED GOLD MINING TOWN AT ONE TIME BUT NOW THE FOREST HAS TAKEN MOST OF IT BACK - EVIDENTLY SOMEONE IS STILL MAINTAINING THE CLAIM BECAUSE THERE ARE SIGNS OF RECENT SMALL SCALE MINING AND AN "APARTMENT" IN THE CORNER OF ONE OF THE FEW BUILDINGS STILL STANDING - THE AMOUNT OF HEAVY MACHINERY LAYING AROUND RUSTING IS AMAZING
- GOT OUT THE BARBEQUE AND HAD BROILED SALMON FOR DINNER!
1000 - LEFT KLAG AND WENT OVER INTO LAKE ANNA WHICH JOINS IT - JUST INSIDE THE ENTRANCE, ON A LITTLE ROCK PROMITORY COVERED WITH TREES, I SPOTTED A WHITE MARBLE MARKER - WE LET THE BOAT DRIFT WHILE HOWARD AND I WENT OVER TO INVESTIGATE - IT WAS A GRAVE STONE FOR JOHNSON MCLEAN, DIED JAN 10, 1932, AGE 48 YRS - WHILE WE WERE CUTTING SOME OF THE BRUSH AWAY FROM IT JUDY MANAGED TO GET A NICE LITTLE SILVER SALMON ON HER BUZZ BOMB
1100 - DECIDED TO GO TAKE A LOOK AT SISTERS LAKE IN THE METZELER SO ALL FOUR OF US PILED IN, LEFT SEA RAVEN DRIFTING IN ANNA, AND RAN THROUGH A VERY NARROW AND SHALLOW CHANNEL TO SISTER - JUST ANOTHER BIG BEAUTIFUL BODY OF WATER - WE DIDN'T DARE STAY LONG ENOUGH TO DO MUCH EXPLORING
1230 - BACK OUT THOUGH THE "GATE" AND INTO SMOOTH CHANNEL - HOWARD AND JUDY SAID THEY WOULD KIND OF LIKE TO GET TO SITKA SO WE PUT DOWN THE OUTRIGGERS AND GOT READY TO RUN SOUTH - TURNED OUT TO BE SUCH A LOW SWELL THAT WE DIDN'T NEED THE STABLIZERS - LOTS OF FISHERMEN OFF THE COAST AND WHEN WE SAW SOME BIG SALMON FIGHTING WITH SOME SEAGULLS FOR A BALL OF BAIT - HOWARD DECIDED HE'D LIKE TO FISH SOME MORE - JUDY GOT TWO NICE PINKS AND HE GOT ONE IN ABOUT AN HOUR
1700 - ANCHORED IN KALININ BAY - LOTS OF FISHERMEN HERE! I T'S VERY HANDY TO THE FISHERY AND THERE IS A SCOW HERE TO BUY THEIR FISH - RAINED ON THE WAY IN BUT THEN STOPPED LONG ENOUGH FOR ME TO CRANK UP THE BARBEQUE AND STUFF OURSELVES WITH SALMON AGAIN!
1000 - HEADING OUT OF KALININ DOWN THROUGH NEVA AND OLGA STRAITS AND ON TO SITKA - PRETTY RIDE, BUT NOT MUCH TO SEE IN THE WAY OF CRITTERS - DID SEE OUR FIRST HONEST TO GOD SAILBOAT ACTUALLY SAILING! THE "JOHN PIKE", A GAFF RIGGED SCHOONER FROM SEATTLE HEADED OUT TOWARD SALISBURY SOUND - FIRST SAILING SAILBOAT WE'VE SEEN THIS TRIP!
- ABOUT AN HOUR OUT OF SITKA HEAR A CALL FROM THE "SAINT JUDE" TO "SCARBROUGH" AND FOUND THAT VIRGIL HAD BEEN FOLLOWING US ALL THE WAY FROM SALISBURY SOUND
1400 - DOCKED AT THE CITY FLOAT IN SITKA IN A SLIP BELONGING TO THE "CASINO" - HOPE HE WON'T BE BACK FOR A WHILE! SPENT MOST OF THE AFTERNOON WALKING AROUND TOWN AND GETTING ORIENTED THEN HOWARD AND JUDY TREATED US TO DINNER AT THE CHANNEL CLUB - IT LIVED UP TO IT'S REPUTATION! THE FOOD WAS AS GOOD AS I'VE HAD ANYWHERE!
- CHECKED AT THE POST OFFICE BUT NO MAIL YET BECAUSE OF THE HOLIDAY - ABOUT 3:30 WE PACKED HOWARD AND JUDY'S BAGS IN THE BIKE CART AND HOWARD AND I RODE TO THE AIRPORT WHILE LOIS AND JUDY WALKED - IT'S ABOUT TWO MILES AND WAS A REAL NICE LITTLE JAUNT - THIS IS THE PRETTIEST HARBOR WE HAVE SEEN - THE AIRPORT IS ACROSS A BRIDGE WHICH IS HIGH ENOUGH TO GIVE A GREAT VIEW OF THE TOWN, THE HARBOR, THE MANY TINY ISLANDS SURROUNDING THE HARBOR, AND MOUNT EDGECOMBE, THE VOLCANO, OFF TO THE WEST IN THE DISTANCE
- WHEN WE GOT BACK FROM THE AIRPORT WE CALLED JEAN AND CONFIRMED HER VISIT FOR THE 19TH - ALSO TALKED TO NAN AND PINNED DOWN THE 3RD OF AUGUST FOR SHE AND DONNA - FINALLY WE CALLED THE LAKE AND TALKED TO KEN, PAULA, PAUL, SIS, AND DAD - SOUNDS LIKE FUN AT THE LAKE - WISH WE COULD BE TWO PLACES AT ONCE!
- YESTERDAY WE MET A NICE YOUNG COUPLE FROM GIG HARBOR WHILE WAITING AT THE HEAD OF THE DOCK FOR THE TELEPHONE AND THEY CAME OVER FOR DINNER, OR I SHOULD SAY THEY BROUGHT OVER DINNER, A BEAUTIFUL MESS OF KING SALMON ALL READY FOR BAKING - THEY, THEIR CREW OF THREE BOYS, (STEFAN, JAY,AND ERIC) AND WE HAD A SUPER GOOD DINNER! - RANDY BABICH AND HIS LADY, LINDSEY NOMBALAIS, OPERATE A PURSE SEINER CALLED THE "PARAGON" - HIS DAD IS ONE OF THE OLD TIMERS IN GIG HARBOR AND OWNS THE DOCK JUST EAST OF THE TIDES TAVERN - BOTH RANDY AND LINSEY ARE COLLEGE EDUCATED; HE IN PHILOSOPY, SHE IN ECONOMICS, BUT BOTH LOVE TO FISH SO HERE THEY ARE - RANDY WENT HOME ABOUT 10:00 BUT LINSEY STAYED AND DRANK DRAMBUIE WITH US WHILE WE HEARD THE STORY OF HER LIFE - NEAT LADY!
- LOIS GOT INTO AN ENTERTAINING MOOD AND INVITED THE HENNENS AND DON AND JOYCE FROM THE "WINDY THOUGHTS" FOR DINNER - MADE HER FAMOUS ENCHILATA DEEP DISH - WE ALL THREE ARE PLANNING ON LEAVING TOMORROW GOING DIFFERENT WAYS - HAD A GOOD TIME
- SMOKED THE FIRST BATCH OF FISH IN THE EVENING - TURNED OUT GREAT! HOPE THE BIG PIECES ARE AS GOOD!
1700 - STARTED RAINING PRETTY HARD SO WE GAVE UP FISHING AND ANCHORED BEHIND PIPER ISLAND IN SCHULTZE COVE - GOOD SOLID HOOK IN SOFT BOTTOM AT ABOUT 40 FEET
1000 - OUT INTO HOONAH SOUND RUNNING JUST AHEAD OF A BIG RAIN SHOWER FOLLOWING US - WENT AROUND EMMONS ISLAND AND THE VIXENS BUT BY THEN VISIBILITY TO THE NORTH WAS DOWN TO ABOUT 1/2 MILE SO WE HEADED DOWN THE STRAIT - AFTER ABOUT AN HOUR THE RAIN STOPPED AND THE SKY CLEARED BUT THE WIND STARTED PICKING TO 30 KNOTS + AND WE WERE BUCKING ABOUT FOUR FOOT AND VERY CHOPPY SEAS
1200 - DECIDED TO DUCK INTO APPLETON COVE IN RODMAN BAY AND WAIT FOR THINGS TO CALM DOWN A BIT - FOUND THE "WINDY THOUGHTS" ANCHORED THERE - THEY HAD STARTED OUT IN THE MORNING WITH THE "SAINT JUDE" BUT TURNED BACK BECAUSE OF THE SEA - "SAINT JUDE" WENT ON BUT ONLY TO THE NEXT COVE, SAOOK BAY ABOUT FIVE MILES DOWN THE STRAIT - APPLETON, I FIND, IS THE PLACE WHERE VIRGIL SAW A GRIZZLY ON THE WAY DOWN TO SITKA - WE KEPT A PRETTY CLOSE WATCH ALL AFTERNOON BUT SAW NO BEARS - SPENT THE AFTERNOON AND EVENING RIDING OUT SQUALLS WITH WINDS TO 30 KNOTS AGAIN, BUT THE ANCHORAGE IS GOOD AND WE HAD NO PROBLEMS
0910 - OUT OF APPLETON COVE AND DOWN THE STRAIT - QUIET THIS MORNING - ALMOST FLAT, MISTY BUT WITH SUN BREAKING THROUGH IN PLACES
1100 - CHATTAM STRAIT (THE BIG WATER!) I S ALMOST FLAT TOO - GAVE "SAINT JUDE" AND "WINDY THOUGHTS" A CALL - THEY WERE HOLED UP IN SAOOK BAY
1200 - LISTENED TO A CONVERSATION BETWEEN THE "COLUMBIA", ONE OF THE ALASKA MARINE HIGHWAY FERRIES, AND OLY SWANSEN, NOW RETIRED AND RUNNING A BOAT CALLED THE "MIDNIGHT SOUL" - INTERESTING OLD GUY!
1300 - STARTING TO GET A BIT BOUNCY OUT HERE - SEAS UP TO 3 FEET WITH A 15 KNOT WIND UP THE STRAIT
1400 - MADE A PASS THROUGH KASNYKU BAY WHERE THERE IS A FISH HATCHERY IN A LITTLE COVE CALLED HIDDEN FALLS - SURE ENOUGH, THERE BEHIND THE FISH REARING GEAR IS A BEAUTIFUL FALLS HIDDEN BEHIND THE ROCKS
1430 - ANCHORED IN A BEAUTIFUL LITTLE BAY CALLED ELL COVE ON THE WEST SIDE OF CHATTAM JUST NORTH OF KASNYKU FALLS - IT IS ONLY ABOUT 1/2 MILE DEEP BUT IS ALMOST COMPLETELY SURROUNDED BY GRANITE CLIFFS WITH A FEW TREES CLINGING TO THEIR FACES - WE ANCHORED, PUT DOWN THE METZELER, THEN WENT EXPLORING - JUST OUTSIDE THE ENTRANCE IS A RIVER AND A WHITE SAND BEACH WITH SAND WHITER AND FINER THAN YOU SEE ON THE OCEAN BEACHES - AROUND THE POINT TO THE SOUTH IS KASNYKU FALLS, THE HIGHEST BIG WATER FALL WE'VE SEEN - WE COULD SEE IT FOR MILES COMING DOWN THE STRAIT - WE TOOK THE METZELER RIGHT UP TO WHERE IT FALLS INTO THE BAY - NEAT!
- LATER I TOOK MY FISHING POLE, SOME BAIT, AND MY HALIBUT JIG OUT TO THE MOUTH OF THE COVE AND TRIED AGAIN TO JIG UP SOMETHING - ALL I DID WAS LOOSE MY LURE! GUESS I'M JUST NOT DESTINED TO CATCH A HALIBUT! - "SAINT JUDE" AND "WINDY THOUGHTS" SHOWED UP LATER - GUESS THEY GOT PRETTY BEAT UP ON 4 FOOT SEAS
0835 - GOT THE METZELER UP, THE POLES OUT IN ANTICIPATION OF SOME MORE BOUNCY WATER GOING ACROSS CHATTAM, AND PULLED THE ANCHOR - AS WE STUCK OUR BOW OUT THE ENTRANCE TO ELL COVE WE WERE GREETED BY A SOLID WALL OF SEINERS - MUST HAVE BEEN 200 - 300 BOATS ALL GOING FOR CHUM SALMON FROM THE HIDDEN FALLS HATCHERY - THEY ONLY HAVE A 15 HOUR OPENING (FROM 0600 TO 2100) AND HAVE TO MAKE THE MOST OF IT - WE THREADED OUR WAY THROUGH WHILE LISTENING TO A SERIES OF EMERGENCIES ON THE RADIO - ALL ASSOCIATED WITH THE FISHING FLEET
0940 - HRO ON - HEADING DOWN CHATTAM ON FLAT WATER WITH NO WIND - SOME MIST BUT GETTING BETTER
1215 - WHALE OFF THE PORT BOW WHILE RUNNING ACROSS FREDERICK SOUND TOWARDS KAKE
1400 - KAKE - TOUGH TIME FIGURING OUT WHERE TO LAND HERE - CHARLEY'S CHARTS GIVE KAKE SHORT SHRIFT - MADE AN ABORTIVE TRY AT THE CITY PIER (WE HAVEN'T FIGURED OUT HOW TO DO A PIER YET - THE VERTICAL PILINGS GIVE US TROUBLE) - FINALLY DECIDED TO GO ON DOWN TO PORTAGE BAY ABOUT 2 MILES AWAY EVEN THOUGH THE PILOT SAYS DON'T TRY IT WITHOUT LOCAL KNOWLEDGE - WORKED OUT FINE - THE CHART IS GOOD!
1430 - DOCKED IN A FINE SLIP AT PORTAGE - GOT OUT THE BIKES AND RODE TO TOWN - KAKE IS A LOT LIKE HOONAH EXCEPT IT'S STREETS ARE GRAVEL INSTEAD OF MUD - THE CLOUDS HAD BURNED OFF AND THE SUN CAME OUT SO IT WAS A GREAT RIDE - WE GOT THE MAIL, RODE UP TO THE "HIGHEST TOTEM IN THE WORLD", AND TOURED THE TOWN - DIDN'T TAKE TOO LONG
2000 - BACK AT THE BOAT WE OBSERVED A STRANGE PHENOMENA - OFF IN THE DISTANCE TOWARD ADMIRALTY ISLAND I SAW WHAT AT FIRST LOOKED LIKE A BIG SAIL - WHEN I GOT THE GLASSES ON IT IT TURNED OUT TO BE A SMALL CLOUD, ALL BY ITSELF HANGING ABOVE THE WATER - IT SOON DISSIPATED BUT OTHERS FORMED, SOME VERTICAL, SOME HORIZONTAL, SHINING IN THE EVENING SUN OVER THE WATER AND THEN DISAPPEARING - KIND OF SPOOKY!
0930 - HEADED OUT - BACK THE SAME WAY WE CAME HEADING FOR BARANOF
1030 - DECIDED TO TRY THE WATER MAKER - NO LUCK! - MAKES A GREAT CLACKING SOUND AND I CAN'T GET ANY PRESSURE - SEEM TO HAVE NORMAL RAW WATER FLOW BUT NO PRODUCT WATER - MANUAL NO HELP - MY GUESS IS A BROKEN OR STICKING VALVE BUT I ALWAYS SEEM TO ENVISION THE WORST POSSIBILITY! - I'LL CALL FRANK WHEN I GET THE CHANCE
1250 - PASSED THE "M/V ACANIA", THE 100 FT STEEL HULLED VESSEL THAT SPENT THE WINTER IN FRIDAY HARBOR WITH US
1330 - WARM SPRINGS BAY AND BARANOF - SPECTACULAR FALLS BY THE VILLAGE BUT ALSO SWARMING WITH BOTH SEINERS AND PLEASURE BOATS ( INCLUDING ONE, THE "BONHEUR", WITH A HELIOCOPTER ON THE AFT END OF HER) - FISHING BOATS WERE RAFTED SIX DEEP ON THE FLOAT AND OTHERS AT ANCHOR FILLED EVERY NEARBY BIGHT - THE BAY IS VERY DEEP AND THERE ARE ONLY A FEW PLACES WE COULD ANCHOR - AFTER STICKING OUR NOSE IN A FEW LITTLE COVES ONLY TO FIND THEM TOO DEEP AND TIGHT WE DECIDED TO PASS BARANOF THIS TIME - WE PROBABLY WOULD HAVE HAD NO TROUBLE YESTERDAY IF WE HAD COME DURING THE OPENING!
1400 - ON TO NEW HORIZONS! - RUNNING UP THE SIDE OF BARANOF ISLAND TOWARD THE NEXT POTENTIAL ANCHORAGE LOIS GOT ALL EXCITED ABOUT THE FISH JUMPING SO WE STOPPED AND PUT OUT THE GEAR - WITHIN 1/2 HOUR WE HAD ONE NICE CHUM AND A SMALL KING! THAT IS THE KIND OF FISHING I LIKE!
1600 - ANCHORED IN TAKATZ BAY, A SPECTACULAR (I SURE SEEM TO USE THAT WORD A LOT) ANCHORAGE - IT'S ANOTHER ONE TOTALLY SURROUNDED BY TWO TO THREE THOUSAND FOOT GRANITE WALLS CAPPED BY SNOW FEEDING HUNDREDS OF FALLS SPLASHING DOWN INTO THE BAY - WE CAME THROUGH A NARROW OPENING WHICH ENTERS THE COVE WHICH IS MAYBE 1/2 MILE LONG AND 500 YDS WIDE - THERE IS A SMALL FISH PEN AT ONE END AND A FEW CRAB TRAPS OUT BUT NO OTHER SIGN OF HUMANS - QUITE A FLOW OF WATER FROM ALL OF THE FALLS
- CHANGED FILTERS ON THE HRO & CHECKED FOR POSSIBLE LEAKS IN THE INTAKE - STILL HAVE MY HAMMERING - MUST BE A VALVE!
0915 - DEPARTED TAKATZ - DECIDED TO RUN ACROSS TO LOOK AT ANGOON SINCE WE WERE PLANNING ON MEETING JEAN THERE - GOOD THING WE DID - THE CONSENSIS OF CHARLEY, THE US COAST PILOT, AND THE SKIPPER WE TALKED TO ON THE RADIO IS THAT WE SHOULDN'T GO IN THERE WITHOUT LOCAL KNOWLEDGE - THE NEAREST ANCHORAGE IS ABOUT THREE MILES AWAY
1230 - MADE A SWING BY ANGOON - WE COULD LAND AT THE FUEL DOCK IF WE WERE EQUIPPED FOR A PIER LANDING (NEED TO DO THAT!) - INTERESTING LOOKING VILLAGE - NICE SISUTL PAINTING ON ONE OF THE BUILDINGS JUST BEHIND THE PIER - LOTS OF PEOPLE FISHING AND LOTS OF FISH JUMPING IN THE BAY BUT WE DECIDED TO GO ON TO TENAKEE
1400 - RUNNING ACROSS CHATTAM WE WERE TREATED TO A REAL DISPLAY OF WATERWORKS BY A PAIR OF HUMPIES - FIRST TIME WE'VE SEEN FULL BLOWN BREACHING - THEY WOULD COME COMPLETELY OUT OF THE WATER AND THEN LAND WITH A HUGE SPLASH - LOOKED LIKE EACH WAS TRYING TO OUT SPLASH THE OTHER - WENT ON FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES BEFORE THEY BLEW AND DISAPPEARED
1700 - DOCKED ON THE BREAKWATER AT TENAKEE SPRINGS - ALL THE FLOAT SPACE WE COULD SEE WAS TAKEN SO WE TIED TO THE NEW STEEL BREAKWATER FLOAT, PUT DOWN THE METZELER AND WENT TO TOWN IN IT - I REALLY WASN'T PREPARED FOR WHAT WE FOUND
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- TENAKEE IS MUCH LIKE ELFIN COVE AND PELICAN BUT EVEN MORE SO - DOZENS OF LITTLE BUILDINGS, MOST LOOKING LIKE TURN OF THE CENTURY, LINING A GRAVEL PATH ALONG THE SHORE FOR ABOUT A MILE - ON THE SHORE SIDE THEY SIT ON PILINGS AND EACH HAS IT'S OWN OUTHOUSE SITTING FAR OUT OVER THE HIGH TIDE LINE (WE'VE ALSO NOTED THAT MOST OF THE STATE FLOATS HAVE AN OUTHOUSE ON THEIR END |
| - ALASKANS, UNLIKE PUGET SOUNDERS, DON'T SEEM TO FEEL THAT THE WATERS ARE GOING TO BE SO EASILY POLUTED) - ON THE LAND SIDE OF THE PATH THE TINY HOUSES EACH SEEM TO HAVE A GARDEN, SOME VERY ELABORATE AND BEAUTIFUL WITH FLOWERS |
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THE BATHHOUSE ITSELF ISN'T MUCH - A GREEN CONCRETE BUILDING AT THE END OF THE FUEL DOCK - OPEN FOR WOMEN FROM 6:00 TO 10:00 PM (NO MIXED BATHING) - WE PASSED! WE'LL CHECK OUT THE STORE & POST OFFICE TOMORROW - WE'VE PRETTY MUCH DECIDED TO GO ON INTO AUKE BAY TO PICK UP JEAN SO SPEND TOMORROW MORNING AROUND HERE THEN HEAD ON
- TOOK THE METZELER DOWN TO THE FERRY DOCK AND GOT BOTH GAS CANS FILLED WITH OUTBOARD FUEL - WALKED AROUND TOWN A WHILE (SURE LOTS OF RETIREES) - BOUGHT A FEW GROCERIES AND TOOK SOME PICTURES
1232 - OFF THE DOCK - MEASURED THE FUEL LEVELS AND RUNNING AT 1200 RPM DRAWING FROM PORT AND RETURNING TO STARBOARD - I WANT TO KNOW HOW FAST FUEL TRANSFERS AT CRUISE POWER SO THAT I CAN JUDGE HOW LONG TO DRAW ON THE AFT TANKS BEFORE THEY GO EMPTY
1332 - MEASURED FUEL LEVELS AGAIN - TRANSFERING AT ROUGHLY 75 GALLONS PER HOUR - ODDLY WE APPEAR TO BE BURNING NEGATIVE AMOUNTS OF FUEL - MUST BE DUE TO MEASURING WHILE RUNNING
1640 - TREATED TO ANOTHER DISPLAY OF BREACHING BY A WHALE IN CHATTAM - NOT AS LONG A SHOW (ABOUT TEN MINUTES) BUT WE WERE CLOSER SO GOT A BETTER VIEW OF THE SPLASHING
1820 - ANCHORED IN SWANSON HARBOR - LOOKED LIKE WE HAD PLENTY OF WATER BUT I'M WRITING THIS AT 03:30 BECAUSE IT'S HARD TO STAY IN BED WHEN IT IS LEANING 15 DEGREES! FORTUNATELY, LOW TIDE WAS AT 03:00 AND THINGS ARE STARTING TO COME BACK TO THE HORIZONTAL ALREADY
0800 - OFF AND OUT ONTO THE LYNN CANAL ON A SUPER SUMMER SUNDAY - RAN UP TO POINT RETREAT AMONGST A PHALANX OF SPORTS FISHERMEN ALL OUT FOR EITHER HALIBUT OR SALMON - COMING BACK DOWN SAGINAW CHANNEL AT THE SOUTH TIP OF SHELTER ISLAND I WAS BEGINNING TO THINK WE WERE BACK AT POINT DEFIANCE AS WE THREADED OUR WAY THROUGH THE BOATS
1230 - DOCKED AT THE CHEVRON MARINA IN AUKE BAY - ALL THE HARBORMASTERS ARE GONE AND ONLY A COUPLE OF NICE KIDS DISPENSING GASOLINE AT THE FUEL DOCK - WE TRIED TO CALL KRIS BUT NO ANSWERE SO LOIS WALKED UP TO THE GROCERY STORE FOR ICE AND A FEW THINGS WHILE I WAITED FOR THE LAUNDRY TO FINISH, THE WATER TRUCK TO SHOW UP (ALL AUKE BAY WATER IS TRUCKED IN!), AND KEPT TRYING TO CALL - FINALLY MADE CONTACT ABOUT 13:15
1430 - TOM, KRIS, JEAN AND THE THREE KIDS ARRIVE - SINCE THE WATER TRUCK NEVER SHOWED UP WE DECIDED TO GO UP TO TEE HARBOR FOR WATER AND INVITED THE TOM HANSEN CREW TO GO ALONG - TOM HAD TO WORK BUT THE REST OF US HEADED NORTH
1630 - TEE HARBOR TURNED OUT TO BE MOSTLY A VERY SMALL BOAT HARBOR - THEY HAD NO OIL AND LIMITED US TO 50 GALLONS OF WATER - IF IT HADN'T BEEN SUCH A NICE DAY I'D HAVE BEEN UNHAPPY
1800 - BACK AT AUKE WHERE THE KIDS HAD FUN RUNNING AROUND THE BOAT WHILE WE WAITED FOR TOM TO ARRIVE - THEY'RE A LIVELY CREW!
1930 - WE DECIDE IT'S SUCH A SUPER EVENING THAT WE WILL GO ANCHOR OUT SO JEAN, LOIS AND I SHOVE OFF SOUTH - WE SEE ONE LETHARGIC WHALE IN SPENCER PASSAGE!
2200 - ANCHORED IN ADMIRALTY COVE
1015 - AT THE UNION FUEL DOCK IN JUNEAU - DOCKED ON THE BACK SIDE WITH PLENTY OF DEPTH AND TOOK ON WATER WHILE JEAN VISITED WITH JEFF - JAKE ALSO CAME DOWN TO SAY HELLO AND TO TAKE A SHORT TOUR OF THE BOAT
1115 - OFF DOWN THE CHANNEL - NEAR THE MOUTH OF GASTINEAU THERE IS A LITTLE HOUSE WITH BRIGHT RED TRIM, FLYING A BIG AMERICAN FLAG, AND DISPLAYING A HUGE BANNER READING, "LUCKY ME" - I NEED A BANNER LIKE THAT TO FLY FROM THE BOAT!
1230 - LOTS OF GILL NETTERS TODAY - WATCHED ONE HAULING IN OUT AT BISHOP POINT - HE HAD A FISH ABOUT EVERY TEN FEET
1400 - TIED TO THE DOCK IN TAKU HARBOR AND WENT FOR A WALK AROUND THE RUINS OF THE OLD CANNERY - GETTING REALLY WARM NOW (PUSHING 80 DEGREES) - THEY HAVE WATER ON THE DOCK! WE COULD HAVE SAVED THE TRIP TO JUNEAU BUT THEN WOULDN'T HAVE SEEN JEFF & JAKE
1500 - TIME TO GO FISHING - FISHED OUT TAKU AND DOWN THE SHORE TO LIMESTONE INLET - GOT ONE NICE 15 POUND KING AND ONE LITTLE SALMON OF SOME KIND BUT HE WAS SO SMALL HE SLID THROUGH THE NET WEBBING
1730 - RAN INTO LIMESTONE WHERE A CRAB FISHERMAN WAS PULLING HIS POTS - REALLY FRIENDLY GUY WITH A BOAT NAMED "WARLOCK" OR SOMETHING CLOSE TO THAT - HE GAVE US FOUR BEAUTIFUL DUNGENESS - SAID IT WAS GOOD FISHING BUT THAT HE LOST TOO MANY POTS SO HE WAS PULLING HIS
THE BOTTOM IN LIMESTONE IS VERY SOFT AND FUZZY - I HAD A HECK OF A TIME KNOWING HOW DEEP IT WAS - FINALLY ENDED UP DROPPING 150 FEET OF ANCHOR CHAIN IN 90 FEET OF WATER BUT WITH LITTLE WIND OR CURRENT WE STAYED PUT ALL RIGHT - THE HUMPIES ARE RUNNING IN THE RIVER AT THE HEAD OF THE INLET AND WE HEARD THE SOUND OF SPLASHING FISH ALL NIGHT LONG
1000 - HEADED OUT OF LIMESTONE IN THE FISHING MODE - FISHED FOR AN HOUR OUT AND DOWN STEPHENS PASSAGE BUT NOT A BITE!
1100 - GAVE UP FISHING AND HEADED FOR TRACY INLET - FOG WAS JUST AHEAD OF US ALL THE WAY BUT IT KEPT DISSIPATING AS WE CAME SOUTH - BY THE TIME WE GOT INTO NO-NAME COVE THE SUN WAS BRIGHT AND THE TEMPERATURE CLOSE TO 70 DEGREES
1400 - ANCHORED IN THE SAME NO-NAME COVE AT WHICH WE STAYED WHEN WE WERE HERE IN JUNE - LOTS LESS SNOW ON THE MOUNTAINS AROUND THAN THERE WAS THEN - WE TOOK A NAP THEN I TOOK THE LADIES TO REPLENISH OUR ICE SUPPLY - FOUND A NICE LITTLE BLUE ICE BERG ABOUT 1/2 MILE AWAY AND FILLED TWO FIVE GALLON BUCKETS WITH CLEAR ICE WHILE THE LADIES HELD THE BOAT WITH THE BOAT HOOK
WHEN WE WERE HERE BEFORE WE HAD THE COVE TO OURSELVES ONE NIGHT AND ONE OTHER BOAT THE NEXT - THIS TIME WE HAVE EIGHT OTHER BOATS FOR COMPANY INCLUDING THE "MIDNIGHT SUN", A BOAT OWNED BY TED PRATT WHICH YOU CAN CHARTER FOR $12,000.00 PER WEEK - THERE'S ROOM FOR ALL THOUGH
0930 - A CESSNA 206 ON AMPHIBIOUS FLOATS MAKES A PASS THEN LANDS AND TAXIS OUR WAY - TWO TRIPS IN THE METZELER BRING THE FIVE HANSENS ABOARD
1000 - ON OUR WAY UP TRACY ARM WITH THE HANSEN KIDS TAKING TURNS DRIVING (TIM JUST GOT THE CAST OFF HIS LEG YESTERDAY BUT HE IS RIGHT IN THERE WITH THE REST!) - LOTS OF BIG BLUE BERGS JUST LIKE BEFORE - THE HANSENS ARE DUE TO BE PICKED UP AT 7:00 TONIGHT SO WE RUN PRETTY FAST TO THE HEAD OF THE INLET, PLANNING ON FOOLING AROUND ON THE WAY BACK
1300 - AT NORTH DAWSON - A BIT MORE ICE THIS TIME BUT WE'VE MORE EXPERIENCE IN GETTING THROUGH IT - GOT RIGHT UP TO THE FACE AND WERE TREATED TO SOME CALVING (NOT BIG BUT PRETTY IMPRESSIVE SPLASHES AND BANGS ANYWAY) - JEFF AND KAREN TOOK THE METZELER AND CAMERAS AND SHOT SOME PICTURES UNTIL A COLD WIND COMING OFF THE GLACIER BLEW THEM OFF THE WATER
1400 - PICKED OUR WAY TO WITHIN ABOUT 1/2 MILE OF SOUTH DAWSON - IT IS OBVIOUSLY THE ACTIVE ONE - HUNDREDS OF HOUSE SIZED BERGS TO FIND OUR WAY THROUGH! WHERE WE WERE FINALLY STOPPED THERE WERE DOZENS OF SEALS ON THE ICE FLOES - PROBABLY BACK WHERE THEY WOULDN'T BE BOTHERED BY ALL THE BOATLOADS OF PEOPLE COMING IN EVERY DAY
1500 - HEADED BACK OUT - STOPPED AT A COUPLE OF THE WATERFALLS AND A COUPLE OF BERGS TO GET A GOOD LOOK - THE SUN WAS OUT MOST OF THE TIME AND WHEN THE LIGHT BREEZE WAS BEHIND US THE BUNCH HAD A GOOD TIME OUT ON THE DECK - FOUND THAT THERE IS A PRETTY GOOD LITTLE BIGHT AT WHAT I CALL THE "HOLE IN THE WALL" WATERFALL WHERE YOU COULD ANCHOR IN GOOD WEATHER
1830 - BACK AT NO-NAME COVE - TODD AND JEANETT TRIED A LITTLE FISHING BUT SOON GAVE UP - THE 206 SHOWED UP AGAIN AT ABOUT 7:15 AND THE HANSENS WERE ON THEIR WAY - REALLY NEAT DAY!
SOMEHOW HALIBUT FISHING CAME UP AND SHE, THE LADY SKIPPER, SAID THEY HAD HAD GOOD LUCK ON THE NINE FATHOM BANK AT AKUSHA ISLAND SO WE HEADED THAT WAY
1100 - VISITED BY DOLS PORPOISES - THIS TIME WITH THE GLASSY WATER WE REALLY GOT A GOOD LOOK AT THEM - JEAN WAS DELIGHTED - ALSO HAD A NICE VISIT WITH THREE WHALES ONE OF WHICH BREECHED ONCE FOR JEAN
1230 - HUNTING FOR THE BANK NORTH OF SAIL ISLAND I COULDN'T FIND IT - FINALLY GAVE UP - CHART MUST BE WRONG!
1330 - AT THE BANK BELOW AKUSHA (NO TROUBLE IN FINDING IT) STARTED JIGGING - ON THE SECOND DRIFT I HOOKED A NICE 12 POUNDER ON THE NORWEGIAN JIG WHICH WAS FOLLOWED TO THE SURFACE BY A HUGE COMPANION - THE ONE I CAUGHT WAS ABOUT 30 INCHES LONG, THE ONE WHICH FOLLOWED IT MUST HAVE BEEN 60 - I TURNED THE POLE OVER TO LOIS AND SHE AND JEAN FISHED FOR ANOTHER HOUR BUT COULD ONLY HOOK BLACK SEA BASS SO WE GAVE UP AND HEADED FOR PYBUS BAY
1730 - ANCHORED IN PYBUS - NICE ANCHORAGE BETWEEN TWO OF THE "SAN JUAN" ISLANDS - BIT TOUCHY GETTING IN BETWEEN SOME POORLY MARKED SHOLES BUT PRETTY WELL PROTECTED FROM ALL BUT NORTHEAST WINDS ONCE INSIDE - HAD A LITTLE RAIN SHOWER ON THE WAY IN BUT IT SOON CLEARED UP AND WE HAD A SPECTACULAR SUNSET
0900 - UP ANCHOR AND OUT ONTO FREDERICK SOUND ON ANOTHER GLASSY WATER MORNING - RAN DOWN THE NORTH SIDE PAST SPRUCE ISLAND TO HERRING BAY WHICH LOOKED TO ME FROM THE CHART LIKE IT SHOULD PRODUCE US SOME HALIBUT
1100 - HERRING BAY - DID ONE DRIFT AND NOT A NIBBLE SO WE HEADED ON DOWN TO THE NEXT LIKELY LOOKING SPOT
| 1230 - ON THE 10 FATHOM BANK OUTSIDE OF MURDER COVE - ABOUT THE THIRD PULL BY JEAN ON THE NORWEGIAN JIG PRODUCED AN 11 POUND HALIBUT SO WE GAVE THAT POLE TO LOIS (OVER HER OBJECTIONS) AND WITHIN FIVE MINUTES WE HAD ANOTHER - JEAN MANAGED TO HOLD HER FISH WHILE I TOOK HER PICTURE BUT WHEN IT CAME TO LOIS' TURN SHE HAD TO GO TO THE BATHROOM, SO I GOT MY PICTURE TAKEN WITH BOTH FISH! | 
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1430 - AT THE ENTRANCE TO RED BLUFF BAY THERE IS A BRICK RED BLUFF OF SOME KIND OF ROCK WHICH DOESN'T SUPPORT EVERGREEN GROWTH SO THE BLUFF IS VISIBLE FROM MILES AWAY - HAVE SEEN NOTHING LIKE IT IN THE SOUTHEAST - THE BAY ITSELF IS LIKE SOMETHING YOU HAVE DREAMED EXISTED BUT ONLY IN HEAVEN
- TO ENTER THE BAY YOU HAVE TO WIND YOUR WAY THROUGH NARROW PASSAGES BETWEEN EVERGREEN COVERED ISLANDS THAT CLOG THE MOUTH WHILE THE SNOW TOPPED GRANITE WALLS CLOSE IN AROUND YOU - THE BAY THEN OPENS UP INTO A TWO MILE LONG 1/4 MILE WIDE BY 1/4 MILE DEEP VALLEY WHERE A FEW REMAINS OF A CANNERY ARE VISIBLE - THEN BEYOND ANOTHER NARROW CHANNEL IT OPENS AGAIN, THIS TIME INTO A HUGE BOWL WITH A ROARING 1000 FOOT HIGH CASCADE OF FALLS ON THE LEFT AND A BEAUTIFUL GREEN RIVER DELTA AT THE FAR END
- WE STOPPED AT THE FALLS FOR A FEW MINUTES, THEN ANCHORED ON A LITTLE BIGHT JUST ACROSS THE BAY WHERE WE COULD SEE BOTH THE FALLS AND THE RIVER - AS WE WERE CIRCLING FOR OUR ANCHORING I HEARD A BANG AND LOOKED AROUND TO SEE WHO HAD DROPPED WHAT - LOIS AND JEAN WERE BOTH OUT ON THE FRONT DECK AND OBVIOUSLY HADN'T DONE ANY BANGING - THEN THERE WAS A FLUTTER AND SCREECH AND A KINGFISHER APPEARED ON OUR PORT LIFELINE - HE HAD HIT THE WINDOW AND JUST ABOUT DONE HIMSELF IN BUT AFTER A FEW SECONDS FLEW OFF WONDERING "WHA HOPPIN!"
- GOT DOWN THE METZELER AND WENT TOURING AROUND THE BAY - WE HAD JUST STARTED UP THE RIVER, A SWIFT MOVING STREAM OF CRYSTAL CLEAR WATER WHICH MAKES UNDERWATER VISIBILITY THROUGHOUT THE BAY MUCH BETTER THAN USUAL, WHEN I SPOTTED A BROWN BEAR ON THE SHORE ABOUT FIFTY YARDS AWAY - WE CUT THE MOTOR AND DRIFTED FOR ABOUT 1/2 HOUR WHILE HE (OR SHE) WADED OUT TO A LITTLE TIDEWATER ISLAND AND ATE SOME GRASS GROWING ON IT, WADED BACK, CLIMBED ONTO A FALLEN TREE, WALKED ITS LENGTH AND APPEARED PUZZLED THAT THERE WAS NO EASY WAY DOWN FROM THE ROOT END, WENT BACK AND FOUND A WAY DOWN AND UNDER, CLIMBED BACK UP AND THEN DOWN AGAIN, SHOOK HIMSELF, STARTED DOWN THE BEACH IN A LAZY LUMBERING WAY AND THEN, SUDDENLY, AT SOME SOUND, RAN IN THE OTHER DIRECTION, GLANCING BACK OVER HIS SHOULDER - HE THEN STOPPED, CALMLY CRAPPED, AND SLOWLY LUMBERED BACK INTO THE STEEP WOODS BEHIND THE SHORE
- JEAN AND I WATCHED FACINATED WHILE LOIS FUSSED ABOUT HOW FAR AND FAST BEARS COULD SWIM
- BACK AT THE BOAT IT WAS HOT ENOUGH TO BRING OUT THE DEER FLYS SO WE GOT OUT THE MOSQUITO NETTING (FIRST TIME THIS SUMMER) AND PUT UP SCREENS OVER THE DOORS THEN DINED ON HALIBUT AND CONTEMPLATED OUR GOOD FORTUNE
0900 - OUT OF RED BLUFF BAY UNDER CLOUDLESS SKIES - RUN DOWN CHATHAM TO PORT ALEXANDER WAS PRETTY UNEVENTFUL - RAN INTO GUT BAY FOR A LOOK AROUND - MUCH THE SAME AS RED BLUFF WITH FEWER WATERFALLS - HAD A LITTLE FOG FOR A WHILE AS WE CAME CLOSER TO THE SOUTH END OF BARANOF BUT IT CLEARED QUICKLY
1500 - PORT ALEXANDER - NARROW BUT VERY WELL MARKED ENTRANCE TO A TINY BAY - FOUND A SPOT ON THE DOCK ALL SAVED FOR US - WALKED UP TO THE COMPANY STORE FOR A FEW THINGS - FILLED THE WATER TANK AND THEN STARTED HELPING FISHERMEN RAFT UP TO US
- DIFFERENT FEELING TO PORT ALEXANDER - ONLY THE ONE COMPANY STORE (NOT VERY WELL STOCKED) - TOTALLY A COMMERCIAL FISHING COMMUNITY - SEEMS LIKE MOSTLY THE LITTLE, VERY MARGINAL FISHING BOATS - NOT A VERY PROSPEROUS LOOKING PLACE OR GROUP OF PEOPLE - OF COURSE THERE ISN'T A PROCESSING PLANT HERE LIKE THERE IS IN PELICAN, OR A SPORT FISHING OPERATION LIKE ELFIN COVE, OR AN INDIAN VILLAGE LIKE HOONAH OR KAKE - PROBABLY AREN'T MORE THAN A DOZEN PERMANENT RESIDENTS
0700 - OFF AND OUT OF PA - WEATHERMAN REPORTED SIX KNOTS AT CAPE DECISION SO WE DECIDED TO GO EARLY - STARTED OFF ON MY COMPASS HEADING OF 134 DEGREES AND SOON FOUND US WELL OFF COURSE - I'VE BECOME CONVINCED THAT THE FOOL COMPASS IS ABOUT 10 DEGREES OFF IN SOME DIRECTIONS - WILL HAVE TO GET THAT FIXED!
0830 - ABOUT HALF WAY ACROSS CHATHAM WE SIGHT A COUPLE OF WHALES BLOWING JUST OFF OUR BOW - WE WENT RIGHT BETWEEN THEM - CLOSEST LOOK WE'VE HAD! SEA IS SMOOTH WITH ABOUT A FOUR FOOT SWELL, SO LONG WE HAVEN'T BOTHERED TO PUT OUT THE FLOPPER STOPPERS
1000 - CAPE DECISION - SEA STILL ALMOST FLAT
1230 - SHAKAN BAY/SHAKAN INLET AND THE ENTRANCE TO EL CAPITAN PASSAGE - ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF SHAKAN INLET LOIS SPOTTED A CRITTER ON THE SHORE - AT FIRST WE THOUGHT IT WAS A BIG CAT, THEN A DEER, BUT IT TURNED OUT TO BE ONE OF A PACK OF EITHER A COYOTES OR WOLVES
- NOTICED MY RADAR HAS QUIT OPERATING IN THE LOWER THREE SCALE POSITIONS - WORKS OK AT 4, 8, AND 16 MILES BUT I GET NO DISPLAY AT 1/2, 1, AND 2 MILE SCALES! MIGHT BE A PROBLEM IN A DENSE FOG - I'LL GIVE BILL DILTZ A CALL
- GOING THROUGH EL CAPITAN WAS KIND OF SCARY! I T'S A WINDING PASSAGE ABOUT FOUR MILES LONG, ADVERTISED AS SEVENTY FEET WIDE WITH A MINIMUM DEPTH OF SEVEN FEET (WE DRAW 7 1/2) - RIGHT AT THE START, WITH THE DEPTH SOUNDER SAYING 18 FEET AND GETTING SHALLOWER, I COULDN'T FIND ONE OF THE MARKERS THE CHART SAID SHOULD BE THERE - FORTUNATELY I WAS STAYING AWAY FROM SOME RIPPLES THAT DIDN'T LOOK RIGHT WHEN I SPOTTED THE MARKER - FLAT ON THE BOTTOM UNDER THE RIPPLES IN ABOUT FOUR FEET OF WATER! I GOT LOIS AND JEAN OUT ON THE DECK AND WE WENT THROUGH THE REST OF THE WAY AT IDLE SPEED!
1530 - ANCHORED IN A LITTLE UN-NAMED COVE ON THE WEST SIDE OF EL CAPITAN AFTER IT GETS WIDER AND DEEPER - BEEN RUNNING FOR 8 1/2 HOURS AND WE'RE POOPED! RAIN STOPPED ABOUT NOON AND NOW THE SUN IS COMING OUT - LOOKS LIKE A NICE EVENING! LOIS WENT ON STRIKE AND REFUSED TO FIX FISH FOR DINNER! DID AN ITALIAN THING INSTEAD - OH WELL, I HAD LEFT-OVER FISH FOR LUNCH - I GUESS ONCE A DAY IS ENOUGH
0745 - DEPARTED OUR LITTLE COVE HEADING SOUTH DOWN EL CAPITAN - WENT PAST BURNT ISLAND THEN WEST TO THE WEST SIDE OF EL CAPITAN ISLAND AND A PLACE CALLED TOKEEN - TOKEEN USED TO BE A BUSY PLACE AS EVIDENCED BY THE LARGE WHARF AND MANY BUILDINGS, BUT IT IS PRETTY QUIET NOW - THEY HAVE PROPPED UP THE WHARF AND INSIDE THE BUILDING, AMONGST THE MANY ROOMS OF JUNK, IS A GROCERY STORE - IT'S OPEN FROM 10:00 TO 8:00 AND SINCE IT WAS ONLY 9:15 AND WE DIDN'T REALLY NEED ANYTHING WE DECIDED NOT TO WAIT
- LYING ACROSS SOME LOGS IN THE BAY WAS ONE OF LEE MOYER'S SISUTL KAYAKS
0930 - HEADING OUT OF CAPITAN ONTO SEA OTTER SOUND I DECIDED IT LOOKED LIKE PRETTY GOOD SALMON COUNTRY SO WE PUT OUT THE GEAR - ALMOST IMMEDIATELY HAD A PINK ON THE PINK HOOCHIE AT 60 FEET - FOR THE NEXT HOUR LOIS DROVE AND JEAN AND I PULLED IN FISH FASTER THAN I COULD CLEAN THEM - THREE PINKS AND THREE SILVERS FROM 5 TO 10 POUNDS - WE TURNED THE COOLER AND ICE BERG ICE OVER TO THE FISH!
1100 - DECIDED WE HAD ENOUGH FISH AND QUIT EVEN THOUGH THEY WERE STILL SHOWING ALL AROUND - RAN DOWN THE SOUND AND AROUND TURN POINT INTO KARHEEN PASSAGE, A ROCK STREWN PASS BETWEEN HECETA AND TUXEKAN ISLANDS (WE GOT SO BUSY ON THE RANGE AND NAVIGATING THAT WE FORGOT TO LOOK FOR THE MORTUARY POLES AND BURIAL BOX IN TONOWEK NARROWS) - OUT INTO TONOWEK BAY AND BEHIND HARMONY ISLAND TO ANOTHER RANGE MARKED CHANNEL, SAN CHRISTOVAL, WHICH LEADS TO SAN ALBERTO BAY AND CRAIG
1430 - THROUGH THE CHANNEL IN KLAWOK REEF INTO KLAWOK INLET, WE DECIDED TO GO NORTH TO VISIT KLAWOK FIRST - THERE IS A LARGE SCALE LOG EXPORTING OPERATION JUST SOUTH OF TOWN IN THE PASSAGE WHERE A JAPANESE SHIP WAS BEING LOADED
1515 - KLAWOK - NEAT LITTLE VILLAGE - DOCKED BEHIND THE "WINDY THOUGHTS" BY MOVING THEM AND ANOTHER BOAT TO MAKE ROOM - RAIN SHOWERS HAD STOPPED AND WE WALKED ABOUT 1/2 MILE TO THE GROCERY STORE ON A SURVEY TOUR - FOUND THAT $60.00 WILL BUY FARE TO KETCHIKAN ON THE TEMSCO FLOAT PLANE - WALKED UP TO THE TOTEM PARK WHICH HAS AN INTERESTING COLLECTION, DIFFERENT THAN ANY OTHERS WE'VE SEEN - ALMOST ALL OF THE POLES ARE THREE DIMENSIONAL FIGURES AND MOST ARE OF A SINGLE FIGURE - NICELY DONE BUT DIFFERENT!
1030 - HEADED FOR CRAIG - ONLY ABOUT 1/2 HOUR RUN - WENT FIRST TO THE CHEVRON DOCK AND PICKED UP A COUPLE OF CASES OF OIL AND FILLED THE WATER TANK, THEN LET LOIS DRIFT WITH THE SHIP IN THE HARBOR WHILE JEAN AND I TOOK THE METZELER OVER TO THE TEMSCO DOCK TO MAKE ARRANGEMENTS FOR HER FLIGHT TO KETCHIKAN IN THE MORNING - THEN DECIDED TO TRY THE SOUTH HARBOR FOR A SLIP - NO SWEAT! LOTS OF TROLLERS OUT SO WE TOOK THE FIRST AVAILABLE
- CRAIG IS A TOWN ON AN ISLAND OF MAYBE 360 ACRES CONNECTED TO THE MAINLAND BY A CAUSEWAY - IT HAS A PAVED HIGHWAY WHICH RUNS FROM CRAIG TO KLAWOCK AND ALSO SIDEWALKS - PRETTY NEAT LITTLE BURG - SPENT THE DAY WALKING AROUND TOWN DOING MORE SHOPPING AND MAKING PHONE CALLS TRYING TO GET ALL OUR LOGISTICS WORKED OUT - HAD DINNER AT RUTH ANN'S, A NICE LITTLE RESTAURANT ON THE WATERFRONT
- IT'S A BEAUTIFUL DAY AGAIN BUT IT'S ALSO MAINTENANCE DAY! CHANGED OIL IN THE GMC, THE GEAR, AND THE HYDRAULICS WHILE LOIS CLEANED HOUSE AND DID THE LAUNDRY - DANGED NEW BILGE PUMP SWITCH QUIT BUT A GOOD WASHDOWN WITH HOT WATER SEEMED TO GET IT GOING AGAIN
- TOOK THE METZELER AROUND THE ISLAND TO TOWN AND ON THE WAY THE JOHNSON OVERHEATED - DON'T KNOW FOR SURE WHY, BUT AFTER I PULLED IT OUT OF THE WATER IT SEEMED OK AND IT RAN FINE ON THE WAY BACK - MECHANICAL DEVICES!
1230 - DRAWING FROM AFT PORT TANK - HEADED OUT AROUND THE SOUTH END OF EGG ISLAND - ANCHORED IN THE BAY WAS THE "YARDARM KNOT", A RUSTY LOOKING DERELICT OF A SHIP EVIDENTLY ENGAGED IN SOME KIND OF FISHING OPERATION - WE HAD RUN INTO A BUNCH OF KIDS WHO WERE MEMBERS OF HER CREW AT THE TELEPHONE IN TOWN
1430 - CHANGED FROM AFT TO FWD PORT TANK
1530 - STARTED FISHING FOR SALMON ON THE EAST SIDE OF THE SAN LORENZO ISLANDS AND MOKE ROCK - THERE WERE SEVERAL COMMERCIAL FISHERMEN THERE BUT WE HAD NO LUCK AND NEVER SAW ANYBODY ELSE HAUL ONE IN, SO AFTER FISHING THROUGH THE GAP AND ALONG THE NORTH SIDE WE GAVE UP
1700 - ANCHORED IN BETWEEN THE SAN LORENZO ISLANDS - NICE BIGHT ABOUT 200 YARDS WIDE AND 1/4 MILE LONG - THREE FISHING BOATS WERE THERE WHEN WE ARRIVED AND WE SOON FOUND THAT IT IS A BUYING STATION - TWO BUYING SCOWS SOON SHOWED UP PLUS ABOUT A DOZEN MORE FISHING BOATS - WE SAT IN THE SUN ON THE FOREDECK WITH OUR MARTINIS AND WATCHED ALL THE ACTION AT CLOSE RANGE
2000 - CALLED KRISTY & BOB
0710 - DEPARTED LORENZO ISLANDS AND OUT THROUGH THE "ROCK PILE" TO THE NORTH - THE MORNING IS BRIGHT AND SUNNY AND THE WATER ALMOST FLAT - NOTHING SHOWS WHERE THE CHART SAYS "BREAKERS"
0830 - MET THE "NORTH STAR", A SMALLER, 100 PASSENGER LUXURY CRUISE SHIP, AT THE ENTRANCE TO BOCA DE FINAS (GOT TO GET OURSELVES A SPANISH DICTIONARY)
0920 - ENTERING DAVIDSON INLET - WATCHED A FISHERMAN PULLING IN FISH ON A BOAT CALLED THE "DUTCH BABY", SMALLER, BUT WITH A VERY SIMILAR LAYOUT TO OURS
1015 - BACK AT THE PLACE WHERE WE HAD SUCH LUCK THE OTHER DAY, WE START FISHING - FISHED ALL ACROSS THE ENTRANCE TO EL CAPITAN WITHOUT A SINGLE STRIKE - COUPLE OF COMMERCIAL BOATS IN THERE WHEN WE STARTED BUT THEY SOON GAVE UP AND LEFT
1215 - HIT A FOUR FATHOM BANK AND LOST SOME GEAR SO WE QUIT AND DECIDED TO GO SIGHTSEEING - RAN AROUND THE EAST SIDE OF TUXEKAN ISLAND AND BACK TO THE TONOWEK NARROWS WHERE WE HAD BEEN LAST WEEK - THIS TIME, AFTER CONSIDERABLE LOOKING, WE FOUND THE INDIAN BURIAL SITE - IT IS ALMOST HIDDEN IN THE TREES AT THE WEST TIP OF THE MOST EASTERLY ISLAND ON THE NORTH SIDE OF TONOWEK - IT IS A LARGE ADZED LOG BOX WITH A POLE CARVED IN THE FORM OF A THREE DIMENSIONAL HUMAN FIGURE WITH HANDS IN THE LIFTING POSTURE AT EACH END - ONE OF THE TWO POLES IS SPLIT AND IS LEANING BADLY - I FELT LIKE GOING ASHORE AND CLEANING UP THE SITE BUT IT WOULD BE A MAJOR JOB WITHOUT A CHAIN SAW
1545 - ALWAYS HOPEFUL WE START FISHING AGAIN - THIS TIME BEHIND THE HARMONY ISLANDS IN TONOWEK BAY - JUST AFTER WE GOT OUR LINES IN THE WATER WE SPOT A DEER SWIMMING ACROSS THE CHANNEL AHEAD OF US - STURDY ANIMAL, IT'S AT LEAST 1/2 MILE WIDE AT THIS POINT
1645 - WE'VE HAD NO LUCK (ONE SMALL COD) SO I FINALLY TALK LOIS INTO QUITTING FISHING AND WE RUN ON DOWN TO AN ANCHORAGE BEHIND ST. PHILIP ISLAND CALLED "BOB'S PLACE" - IT IS A NEAT SPOT WITH A VERY LARGE 5 FATHOM ANCHORING AREA WITH A GOOD BOTTOM - WE DROPPED OUR HOOK JUST OFF A NICE GRAVEL AND CLAM SHELL BEACH MORE?