THE EAGLE MADE A COUPLE OF ATTEMPTS AT FLYING BUT COULDN'T DO MORE THAN LUNGE FOR A COUPLE OF FEET WITH THE FISH, AND HE WASN'T ABOUT TO LET GO! HE THEN WENT TO WORK ON SUBDUEING HIS PREY BY PECKING, STOPPING EVERY NOW AND THEN TO RUFFLE HIS FEATHERS AND TRY HIS WINGS AGAIN AFTER HIS LONG SWIM, BUT NEVER EASING THE GRIP WITH HIS TALONS - A COUPLE OF CROWS HAVE DISCOVERED HIM AND ARE FUSSING OVER SOME OF THE SCRAPS HE IS LEAVING ON THE BEACH
WHILE I 'VE BEEN WRITING THIS HE HAS FINALLY GOTTEN THE FISH WELL ENOUGH TORN UP TO FLY OFF INTO THE WOODS WITH SOME PART OF IT - NOW HE IS BACK, WITH TWO OTHER EAGLES, ONE AN ADULT AND ONE A JUNIOR WITHOUT THE WHILE HEAD AND TAIL - THEY SCREECH AT EACH OTHER AND CHASE EACH OTHER BUT SEEM TO SHARE THE PREY - THE BOOK CALLS THIS BEHAVIOR "DISPLACEMENT" - THE YOUNG EAGLES SEEM TO HAVE JUST AS MUCH CHANCE OF GETTING AN ADULT TO DROP SOMETHING AS THE OPPOSITE - I 'VE ALSO BEEN TOLD THAT EAGLES WILL SOMETIMES DROWN WHEN THEY REFUSE TO GIVE UP PREY TOO LARGE FOR THEM TO SWIM WITH
0930 - DEPARTED OUR ANCHORAGE AND HEADED OUT TO TRY AGAIN FOR THE WILEY SALMON - NO SUCCESS! WE FISHED FOR AN HOUR DOWN SAN CHRISTOVAL CHANNEL THEN RAN THROUGH THE NARROWS AND FISHED SOME MORE IN SAN ALBERTO BAY - ALL WE GOT WAS A COUPLE OF ROCK FISH (ACTUALLY, I'M GETTING SO I LIKE ROCKFISH AS WELL AS SALMON BUT I HATE TO GET SKUNKED)
1200 - DECIDED WE HAD BETTER QUIT AND HEAD FOR KLAWOCK IF WE WERE GOING TO BE THERE AT 2:00 TO MEET DAVE AND PEG - RAN UP THE WEST SIDE OF WADLEIGH ISLAND THROUGH SOME VERY SHALLOW AND ROCKY WATER, AROUND THE TIP, AND DOWN THE EAST SIDE INTO KLAWOCK INLET - IT WAS KIND OF A PRETTY RUN - THE WEATHER HAS BEEN FUZZY ALL DAY, A FEW RAIN SHOWERS AROUND BUT NEVER ON US
1345 - DOCKED AT KLAWOCK - FOUND THAT THERE IS NO PHONE AT THE AIRPORT SO CALLED WRANGLE AIR AND TOLD THEM TO LET DAVE KNOW WE WOULD CALL A CAB FOR THEM - THEY WERE JUST TAXIING OUT - WE DID A LOAD OF WASH AND FILLED THE WATER TANK WHILE WE WATCHED THE SOCKEYE JUMP ALL AROUND US IN THE KLAWOCK RIVER (NO FISHING!)
1445 - DAVE BUZZES US AND WE CALL A CAB
1530 - DEPART KLAWOCK WITH DAVE AND PEG ON BOARD - THEY ARE FIXING UP A BOAT FOR A LIVABOARD SO ARE VERY INTERESTED IN OURS - SINCE IT WAS EARLY WE DECIDED TO HEAD OUT TO NEW COUNTRY - RAN DOWN THROUGH URSUA CHANNEL BETWEEN SAN FERNANDO AND SAN JUAN BAUTISTA ISLANDS THEN NORTH OF ST IGNACE ISLAND INTO PORT REAL MARINA (THE SPANISH DID MOST OF THE NAMING AROUND HERE!) - WATCHED A COUPLE OF WHALES FROM A DISTANCE ON THE WAY
1530 - ANCHORED BEHIND A LITTLE ISLAND CALLED MUERTA ISLAND ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF PORT REAL MARINA - FEELING OUR WAY IN AND WATCHING FOR ROCKS, I SAW WHAT APPEARED TO ME TO BE FLOATING DRIFTWOOD UNTIL PEG SAID IT WAS MOVING - SEALS, LAYING ON AN ALMOST SUBMERGED ROCK! WE STOPPED, DROPPED THE HOOK, GOT OUT THE BARBEQUE, AND WATCHED THE SEALS WHILE COOKING THE SUPERB STEAKS THAT DAVE AND PEG HAD BROUGHT!
0930 - UP ANCHOR AND WEST THROUGH PORT REAL MARINA AND OUT TO THE BIG OCEAN
1030 - STARTED FISHING AT SIKETI POINT ON CONE ISLAND, MADE A COUPLE OF PASSES THERE, THEN RAN OVER TO CAPE ADDINGTON WHERE WE SAW SOME COMMERCIAL BOATS - TURN OUT THEY WERE SEINERS ALL MAKING SETS JUST INSIDE THE CAPE - WE WATCHED ONE HAUL IN HIS NET WITH WHAT MUST HAVE BEEN SEVERAL HUNDRED FISH IN IT
1200 - GEAR BACK IN THE WATER, WE CAUGHT ONE VERY NICE 12-13 LB COHO BEFORE WE DECIDED TO QUIT
1300 - HEADING UP ST NICHOLAS CHANNEL WE STOPPED AT KELLY COVE WHERE A BIG BUNCH OF TENDERS, INCLUDING THREE JAPANESE SHIPS, WERE ANCHORED - PEG AND I WENT INTO THE SCOW IN THE COVE WHERE A COUPLE OF NICE KIDS GAVE US A COUPLE OF BUCKETS OF ICE
1430 - RAN ON UP ST NICHOLAS, ACROSS THE GULF OF ESQUIBEL, AND DOWN SAN CHRISTOVAL CHANNEL FOR THE THIRD TIME THIS WEEK - ALMOST RAN DOWN A WHALE AT THE MOUTH OF ST NICHOLAS - SURFACED RIGHT IN FRONT OF US - HE SURE WENT BACK DOWN IN A HURRY! WE STOPPED BUT NEVER SAW HIM AGAIN - BOTH DAVE AND PEG POOPED OUT ABOUT THE TIME WE GOT TO SAN CHRISTOVAL AND SLEPT ALL THE WAY TO KLAWOCK
1715 - DOCKED AT KLAWOCK - FRESH SALMON FOR DINNER!
0915 - DAVE AND PEG CATCH A CAB TO THE AIRPORT
0945 - NAN AND DONNA ARRIVE FROM THE AIRPORT - I TOOK THEM UP TO LOOK AT THE TOTEM PARK WHILE LOIS WENT GROCERY SHOPPING, THEN WE TOOK THE METZELER OVER THROUGH ALL THE LEAPING SOCKEYE TO THE GROCERY STORE AND BROUGHT BACK THE LOOT
1100 - HEADED OUT OF KLAWOCK AND DOWN THE INLET TO CRAIG
1200 - ANCHORED IN FRONT OF THE CITY DOCK AT CRAIG AND TOOK THE METZELER IN - MADE SOME PHONE CALLS, BOUGHT SOME WHITE WINE FOR THE GIRLS, AND LOOKED AROUND THE TOWN - AS WE CAME BACK TO THE BOAT WE WENT BY ONE OF THE SEVERAL FISH PACKING BOATS WITH A PAC-VAC WORKING AND THE SKIPPER INVITED US ABOAD TO HAVE A GOOD LOOK - WE CLAMBERED UP THE SIDE OF THE BOAT AND STOOD ON THE DECK WHILE THE MACHINE WOULD SUCK UP 50 FISH AT A TIME AND SPIT THEM OUT ON A CONVEYER BELT AND INTO THE FISH HOLD - THIS PARTICULAR BOAT WAS OUT OF SEATTLE AND WAS BUYING PINKS IN THE ROUND (OR UNCLEANED)
1400 - OFF TO FIND AN ANCHORAGE - RAN SOUTH THROUGH BUCARELI BAY AND INTO ULLOA CHANNEL TO WATERFALL TO SEE WHAT ALL THE TALK IS ABOUT
1530 - WATERFALL IS AN OLD CANNERY WHICH HAS BEEN CONVERTED INTO A MODERN SPORT FISHING RESORT - THE BIG OLD PACKING BUILDING AND ALL OF WHAT MUST HAVE BEEN THE WORKERS CABINS ARE NEATLY PAINTED AND CONVERTED TO USE FOR THE RESORT GUESTS - IT'S A PRETTY LOCATION, BUT WE COULDN'T SEE THE "WATERFALL" - DIDN'T STOP BECAUSE WE'VE ALREADY GOT ABOUT ALL THAT A RESORT COULD OFFER! RAN BACK UP OLLOA AND AROUND THE NORTH END OF SUEMEZ ISLAND
1645 - ANCHORED IN A LITTLE UN-NAMED COVE JUST NORTH OF POINT ARBOLEDA - WOULDN'T BE GOOD IN A STORM BUT IN THE PERFECT WEATHER WE HAVE BEEN HAVING IT WAS GREAT - LOTS OF BAIT AND FISH JUMPING ALL AROUND (WE DIDN'T GET ANY, BUT WE DIDN'T TRY VERY HARD!)
0929 - AWEIGH TO FIND THE WILEY KINGS - LAST NIGHT WHEN I WAS UP CONTEMPLATING THE HEAVENS AT ABOUT 2:00 AM I NOTICED A BRIGHT SKY OFF IN A DIRECTION WHERE NO TOWN EXISTS, PORT SAN ANTONIO, SO WE HEADED OVER THAT WAY TO SEE WHAT WAS GOING ON - ALL WE COULD FIND WAS THE RAINIER FISHERIES PACKER WE MET ON THE WAY INTO THE PORT - HE MUST HAVE BEEN TAKING ON FISH FROM THE SEINERS LAST NIGHT
1100 - TRIED JIGGING FOR HALIBUT FOR A FEW MINUTES ON A LIKELY LOOKING SHELF OFF BAKER ISLAND BUT ALAS TO NO AVAIL!
1145 - OUT AT CAPE BARTOLOME WE PUT DOWN THE SALMON GEAR - HARDLY GOT IT DOWN WHEN EACH OF THE GIRLS HAD A FIVE POUND BLACK ROCK FISH ON HER LINE - GOT THOSE IN AND SUBDUED AND STARTED TO GET THE LINES IN THE WATER AGAIN WHEN THE BOTTOM STARTED COMING UP PRETTY FAST AND I HOLLARED FOR THEM TO HAUL IN - AGAIN, THERE WAS A BIG BLACK FISH ON EACH LINE!
1200 - SINCE WE WERE HUNTING FOR SALMON, WE RAN AROUND THE CAPE AND SPENT 45 MINUTES ROCKING AND ROLLING IN THE SWELLS WITHOUT A BITE - OH WELL, THEY SEEM TO COME WHEN WE AREN'T REALLY TRYING!
1300 - GAVE UP THE FISHING AND HEADED SOUTH INTO WHAT APPEARED TO BE A FOG BANK ALONG THE WEST COAST OF DALL ISLAND - AS WE CAME ACROSS WE SAW TWO SAIL BOATS ACTUALLY SAILING, A RARE SIGHT IN THESE WATERS - I GAVE THEM A CALL TO ASK ABOUT THE FOG WHICH THEY SAID WASN'T FOG BUT JUST A HAZE UNDER LOW CLOUDS - SINCE THE SEA WAS PRETTY LOW AND THE FORECAST GOOD, DECIDED TO GO ON DOWN THE WEST SIDE TO WATERFALL BAY FOR THE EVENING
1430 - GETTING A BIT ROLLEY RUNNING ALMOST IN THE TROUGH SO WE PUT DOWN THE FLOPPER STOPPERS - NOW THE ROLL ALMOST PUT THE WHOLE CREW ASLEEP, DONNA WAS GONE! WITH THE ROLL WE WERE DRAWING A LITTLE AIR FROM THE PORT TANK SO I MOVED FUEL FROM STBD AFT TO STBD FWD FOR ABOUT AN HOUR (80 GALLONS)
1630 - WATERFALL BAY - PRETTY LITTLE INLET WITH A VERY PRETTY FALL NEAR THE ENTRANCE - COULDN'T FIND A PLACE TO ANCHOR WHERE THE FALLS WERE VISIBLE SO WE WENT ON TO THE HEAD WHERE THE CHART SHOWED ANOTHER FALL - SURE ENOUGH, FOUND A NICE ANCHORAGE WITH A SMALL BUT NOISY FALL TO LISTEN TO ALL NIGHT - ALSO HAD A PRETTY GOOD WIND MOST OF THE NIGHT - THE PILOT SAYS THE WEST WIND DRAWS INTO THE BAY AND HE IS SURE RIGHT!
- DINED ON BLACK ROCKFISH A LA LOIS, SUPERB!!!!
- GIRLS & I FOLLOWED THE WATERFALL UP THE SIDE OF THE HILL THIS MORNING - FUN CLIMB! PRETTY POND AND LAKE ON TOP PLUS LOTS OF MUSKEG HOLES AND WILD FLOWERS - ONLY CRITTER WE SAW WAS A FROG BUT LOTS OF SIGN OF BEAR AND BEAVER AS WELL AS HUMAN FOOTPRINTS
1030 - UP AND OUT OF WATERFALL BAY AND DOWN THE OUTSIDE OF DALL ISLAND - AS SOON AS WE GOT OUT OF THE BAY THE SUN CAME OUT AND THE WIND WENT TO ZILTCH - WE HAD LEFT THE STABLIZERS DOWN AND THE SWELL WAS ABOUT A FOOT SO WE HAD A LAZY RIDE DOWN THE COAST
1230 - MADE A PASS THROUGH PORT BAZON JUST BECAUSE IT LOOKED NEAT ON THE CHART - IT WAS INHABITED BY TWO PACK BOATS AND THREE SEINERS WAITING FOR ANOTHER OPENING
1400 - OFF POINT CORNWALLIS WE DECIDED WE MIGHT AS WELL TRY A LITTLE FISHING (WE SEEM TO DO BETTER WHEN WE FISH ON THE SPUR OF THE MOMENT - AND WE DID!) - WITHIN AN HOUR WE HAD ONE BIG COHO, TWO SMALL COHO, AND ONE FOUR PERSON PINK TO EAT FOR DINNER - QUIT AFTER A SNAP CAME LOOSE AND WE LOST A FLASHER AND HOOCHIE TO THE REALLY BIG FISH! (I BET THAT FISH IS A NERVOUS WRECK WITH THAT FLASHER CHASING HIM EVERYWHERE!)
1600 - ROUNDED CAPE MUZON - WE HAD BEEN ABLE TO CATCH GLIMPSES OF THE QUEEN CHARLOTTES TO THE SOUTH MOST OF THE AFTERNOON BUT THEY SEEM TO BE MOSTLY IN CLOUD WHILE WE ARE ENJOYING OUR SUNSHINE - STUCK OUR NOSE IN A NEAT LOOKING LITTLE BIGHT JUST INSIDE THE CAPE BUT DECIDED IT WOULD HAVE A BIT TOO MUCH SWELL FOR A COMFORTABLE EVENING
1700 - ANCHORED ON A SMALL BIGHT AT THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE ENTRANCE TO DATZKOO HARBOR - GIRLS GOT THE METZELER DOWN AND EXPLORED THE BEACH WHILE LOIS & I SAT AND ENJOYED THE SUNSHINE, THEN WE ALL ATE BROILED PINK SALMON FOR DINNER
0930 - ANCHOR UP AND HEADING NORTH THROUGH KAIGANI STRAIT
1030 - STOPPED AT A LITTLE ISLAND JUST BELOW HOWKAN NARROWS, LET THE BOAT DRIFT, AND WENT ASHORE - FOUND A GRAVE MARKER AND A SEA OTTER BEDDING GROUND - LOTS OF SEA URCHIN SHELLS AS WELL AS FISH SCALES AND GILL COVERS
1130 - ANCHORED AT THE SITE OF THE HOWKAN INDIAN VILLAGE AND SPENT A COUPLE OF HOURS TROMPING THROUGH THE WOODS - THE PLACE HAS BEEN ABANDONED SINCE 1911 SO THERE ISN'T MUCH SIGN OF THE VILLAGE LEFT - FOUND A MARBLE HEADSTONE DEEP IN THE WOODS:
IN MEMORY OF
GEORGE SMITH
DIED IN CHRISTIAN HOPE
AUG 10, 1886
AGED
30 YEARS
1530 - VIEW COVE DOESN'T DO MUCH TO LIVE UP TO IT'S NAME - NOW THE SITE OF A LOGGING OPERATION, THE REMAINS OF AN OLD CANNERY ARE ON THE SHORE NEAR THE ENTRANCE
1630 - ANCHORED BETWEEN TWO OF THE MC FARLAND ISLANDS - PRETTY HARD GETTING A HOOK TO HOLD IN THE ROCKY BOTTOM BUT NO WIND IS FORECAST SO WE JUST PUT IT DOWN AND FIGURED ON LISTENING TO THE RACKET ALL NIGHT AS THE CHAIN DRAGS ACROSS THE BOTTOM
- NAN AND I PUT OUT THE CRAB POT AND THEN TOOK THE METZELER EXPLORING THE ISLANDS - THEY REMIND ME A BIT OF BARKLEY SOUND, LOTS OF TINY ISLANDS AND ROCKS WITH STEEP ROCKY SIDES, MOSTLY COVERED WITH TREES AND BRUSH - FOUND ONE NEAT CLAM AND MUSSEL BEACH THAT WE PORTAGED ACROSS
0930 - HAULED ANCHOR AND HEADED NORTH TO SUKKWAN NARROWS AND HYDABURG - NARROWS ARE SHALLOW AND PRETTY BUT OTHERWIZE NOT VERY EXCITING - NO STRONG CURRENTS
1115 - DOCKED AT HYDABURG - DON'T KNOW WHY THEY SPELL IT HYDABURG - IT WAS FORMED IN 1911 FROM THREE SEPARATE HAIDA VILLAGES - SEEMS LIKE IT OUGHT TO BE "HAIDABURG" - WALKED TO TOWN ABOUT 1/2 MILE SOUTH OF THE FLOATS - THEY HAVE A VERY NICE TOTEM PARK WITH SOME VERY BUSY, TYPICALLY HAIDA POLES - ONE GROCERY STORE, TWO CAFES, AND A NEW COLD STORAGE PLAN WHICH JUST OPENED LAST WEEK AFTER BURNING DOWN FOUR YEARS AGO - PEOPLE ARE SURE EXCITED ABOUT THAT! THE HYDA RIVER FLOWS THROUGH TOWN AND THE SALMON WERE STILL IN IT - LOTS OF DEAD ONES ON THE BOTTOM AND KIDS TRYING TO SNAG ONE ON THE WAY UPSTREAM - BOUGHT SOME GROCERIES AND HEADED BACK TO THE BOAT
1300 - OFF THE DOCK - AS WE WENT PAST TOWN I SENT THE GIRLS IN TO THE COLD STORAGE PLANT FOR SOME ICE - AS USUAL, THEY WOULDN'T TAKE ANY MONEY FOR IT (THE PACKERS FURNISH ICE AS A MATTER OF COURSE TO THE FISHERMEN AND OUR TWO FIVE GALLON BUCKETS ARE A PRETTY SMALL MATTER TO THEM) - WE RAN DOWN SUKKWAN STRAIT INTO HETTA INLET WHERE WE FUSSED ABOUT WHICH WAY TO GO - THERE IS SO MUCH TO SEE IT'S HARD TO DECIDE WHAT TO PASS UP - FINALLY DECIDED TO HEAD UP HETTA INLET A WAYS
1530 - COHO WERE JUMPING ALL OVER THE PLACE SO WE DECIDED TO PUT OUT THE GEAR FOR A LITTLE WHILE - WE COULDN'T KEEP THE ROCK FISH OFF OUR LINES LONG ENOUGH TO CATCH A SALMON SO WE GAVE UP AND WENT INTO HETTA COVE TO ANCHOR - IT'S A REALLY PRETTY PLACE, ALMOST PERFECTLY ROUND WITH A NARROW ENTRANCE GUARDED BY A SEAL ON A ROCK - THE FOREST AROUND HAS SOMEHOW ESCAPED THE LOGGERS AND CONTAINS SOME HUGE TREES
- LOIS, NAN AND I LEFT DONNA TO PRACTICE ON HER GUITAR WHILE WE WENT ASHORE - A TRAIL LEADS OVER A LITTLE RIDGE TO THE HETTA RIVER AND THEN ALONG A VERY STEEP AND BRUSH COVERED BANK TO HETTA LAKE - FORTUNATELY, THE TRAIL IS WELL USED AND, BY DOING LOTS OF STOOPING AND CLIMBING, WE MADE IT THE 1/2 MILE TO THE LAKE - WHERE THE RIVER FLOWS OUT OF THE LAKE THERE IS AN OLD LOG JAM SO YOU CAN WALK ON TOP OF THE RIVER TO LOOK DOWN AT THE MILLIONS OF TINY FISH - THE SALMON THAT RECENTLY SPAWNED HERE ARE GONE BUT THE BOTTOM OF THE STREAM IS COVERED WITH THE WHITE MOSSEY LOOKING MASS OF EGGS AND SPERM - IT IS OBVIOUSLY A PLACE POPULAR WITH SOME FLY FISHERMEN BECAUSE THE MOSS COVERING ROCKS ALONG BOTH SIDES OF THE STREAM IS WELL WORN - WE FORDED THE STREAM AT A CABIN WHERE SOMEONE HAS STRUNG A LINE ACROSS AND FOUND SIGN OF A BIG BEAR AT THE FOOT OF THE TRAIL
- BACK AT THE BOAT NAN PUT OUT THE CRAB TRAP WITH ONE OF OUR ROCK FISH, I ATE FOUR CLAMS AS A TEST (THEY SURE WERE GOOD!), AND WE ATE PORK CHOPS FOR DINNER - A PRETTY TASTY CHANGE!
0845 - OUT OF OUR PRETTY LITTLE HETTA COVE ON A BRIGHT, CLEAR AND WARM MORNING - RAN DOWN HETTA INLET AND AROUND LIME POINT TO NUTKWA INLET WHICH WAS ONE OF OUR ALTERNATIVE ANCHORAGES LAST NIGHT
1030 - ANCHORED UP IN THE FAR NORTHEAST CORNER OF NUTKWA NEAR THE ENTRANCE TO NUTKWA LAGOON - THE SUN WAS BRIGHT AND WARM SO LOIS AND DONNA STAYED ON THE BOAT OILING THE RAIL WHILE NAN AND I WENT EXPLORING IN THE METZELER - AS WE GOT CLOSE TO THE LAGOON ENTRANCE THE FISH, WHICH HAD BEEN JUMPING ALL MORNING AS WE CAME DOWN, STARTED WILDLY THRASHING THE WATERS - THE CHANNEL, PERHAPS 100 FEET WIDE, WAS FILLED WITH HUNDREDS OF FISH - WHERE THE LAGOON MET THE CHANNEL WERE RAPIDS, A DROP OF ABOUT THREE FEET WITH THE LAGOON FEEDING THE SEA - WE GOT OUT AND WATCHED AS THE SALMON WOULD, ONE BY ONE, ALMOST MAGICALLY APPEAR IN THE FLOW AT THE TOP OF THE WHITE WATER DROP - I THINK THEY WERE PINKS, SLIM FISH AVERAGING ABOUT TWO FEET LONG
LATER, NEAR HIGH TIDE, WE ALL FOUR CAME BACK TO FIND THE DROP GOING THE OTHER WAY - WE RODE THE INCOMING STREAM INTO THE LAGOON AND WERE STARTING TO EXPLORE ITS TWO OR THREE MILE LENGTH WHEN I SUDDENLY REALIZED THAT WE WERE ALMOST OUT OF GAS IN THE JOHNSON - IT WOULD HAVE BEEN A VERY LONG ROW TO THE BOAT WITH FOUR OF US IN THE LITTLE INFLATABLE SO WE RELUCTANTLY TURNED BACK
1330 - HEADING ON SOUTH, WE RAN DOWN CORDOVA BAY WITH THE WIND PICKING UP BEHIND US - BY THE TIME WE CAME AROUND SHIP ISLAND WE HAD SEAS OF ABOUT THREE FEET PUSHING US ALONG
1630 - TURNED THE CORNER AROUND KLAKAS ISLAND INTO KLAKAS INLET - RAN UP TO MAX COVE LOOKING FOR A GOOD PLACE TO ANCHOR OUT OF THE WIND, WHICH WAS NOW BLOWING A STEADY 20 KNOTS - DIDN'T LIKE THE ANCHORAGE THERE SO CAME BACK OUT AND ACROSS THE INLET TO A COVE ON THE WEST SIDE WHICH I THOUGHT WOULD BE MORE PROTECTED
1800 - ANCHORED IN MY COVE AND WITHIN AN HOUR HAD DRAGGED THE HOOK ACROSS THE ROCKY BOTTOM FOR A COUPLE OF HUNDRED YARDS - TRIED MORE SCOPE BUT THAT DID NO GOOD SO WE HAULED UP, DROPPED THE DANFORTH ANCHOR AND ALSO RESET THE PLOW - NOW WE WERE DRAGGING TWO ANCHORS ALL OVER THE COVE! ABOUT 10:30 IT SEEMED WE FINALLY HAD A BIT OF A HOLD ON THE BOTTOM SO I WENT TO BED, GETTING UP EVERY NOW AND THEN TO CHECK OUR POSITION - THERE WAS A BRIGHT AND BEAUTIFUL FULL MOON SO IT WAS EASY TO SEE WHERE WE WERE
0830 - ALL OUR ANCHORS UP AND HEADING OUT OF KLAKAS INLET - RAN DOWN PAST TURN ISLAND AND ACROSS CORDOVA BAY TOWARD GUIDE ROCKS IN WARM SUNSHINE - STILL A PRETTY GOOD BREEZE FROM THE NORTH KICKING UP THE SEA ENOUGH TO MAKE THE FISHERMEN COMPLAIN BUT SINCE WE ARE RUNNING WITH IT IT'S GREAT
1000 - DROPPED OUR ANCHOR BEHIND ONE OF THE MANY BARRIER ISLANDS AND TOOK THE METZELER TO FIND A "WATERFALL" MARKED ON THE CHART - WE WERE NOT LONG AFTER LOW TIDE SO HAD TO GO QUITE A WAYS AROUND A COUPLE OF ISLANDS TO GET THERE BUT, SURE ENOUGH, WE FOUND IT - A TINY PASSAGE WITH A BIT OF WATER COMING OUT OF A LAGOON - THE WATER WAS VERY CLEAR AND, ALTHOUGH THERE WERE NO SALMON AS THERE WERE YESTERDAY, THE BOTTOM WAS ABUNDANT WITH SEA LIFE - WE PADDLED, POLED, AND PUSHED OUR WAY UP THE MOVING STREAM INTO THE LAGOON WHICH IS ONLY ABOUT FIVE ACRES - WE WEREN'T IN THERE MORE THAN 15 MINUTES BUT WHEN WE STARTED TO COME OUT, EXPECTING TO RIDE THE STREAM, WE FOUND THAT THE WATER WAS NOW COMING INTO THE LAGOON AND WE HAD TO PADDLE, PUSH, AND POLE OUR WAY OUT!
1200 - PUT UP THE METZELER AND PUT OUT THE POLES, JUST IN CASE, AND WE ARE ON OUR WAY AGAIN - OUT THROUGH EUREKA CHANNEL, AROUND MEXICO POINT, AND INTO DIXON ENTRANCE - A LOW SWELL OUT OF THE WEST WAS SOON BEHIND US AND THE GIRLS LAY ON THE TOP DECK TO COOK IN THE SUN - WE COULD SEE THE CANADIAN CASCADES, FAR IN THE DISTANCE BEHIND PRINCE RUPERT, ALL AFTERNOON - LOTS OF SEINER ACTIVITY ALL THE WAY AROUND THE SOUTH END OF PRINCE OF WALES - STOPPED A COUPLE OF TIMES TO WATCH ONE OF THE BOATS CLOSE THE NET BUT NONE SEEMED TO BE GETTING MANY FISH - THE TALK ON THE RADIO WAS ABOUT HOW POOR THE FISHING WAS
1630 - ANCHORED IN GARDINER BAY, A VERY PRETTY BAY ON THE EAST SIDE OF PRINCE OF WALES - LIKE SO MANY OF OUR FAVORITE ANCHORAGES IT HAS A COUPLE OF SMALL ISLANDS ALMOST BLOCKING THE ENTRANCE BUT THEN OPENS UP INTO A HUGE BOWL WITH EVERGREEN TRIMMED GRANITE MOUNTAINS SURROUNDING THE BAY - IN AUGUST THE SNOW CAPS AND WATERFALLS ARE GONE BUT THE CLIFFS ARE STILL THERE!
- GOT DOWN THE METZELER AND WENT TO THE BEACH - IT'S LOW TIDE AND THERE ARE A BUNCH OF TREASURES ON SHORE, A BATHTUB, STOVE (ONLY SLIGHTLY RUSTED), BROKEN TOILET BOWL, KITCHEN SINK - THE KITCHEN SINK HAS BEEN THERE QUITE A WHILE - ONE OF THE TWO BASINS IS PLUGGED AND HAS TAKEN THE FORM OF A VERY SPECIAL TIDE POOL - DOZENS OF TINY FISH, HERMIT CRABS, MUSSELS, BARNICLES AND OTHER MARINE ANIMALS ARE NOW MAKING IT THEIR HOME
- LATER IN THE EVENING THE SEINERS STARTED COMING IN - SIX OR EIGHT ANCHORED AROUND THE CORNER FROM US BUT WERE GONE BY SUNUP
0830 - OFF TO THE BIG CITY TODAY, BEATING ACROSS A PRETTY CHOPPY SEA IN CLARENCE STRAIT - WIND NEVER MORE THAN 15 KNOTS BUT IT'S SO WARM AND WE ARE TAKING SO MUCH SPRAY ACROSS THE BOW THAT WE ARE GETTING ENCRUSTED IN SALT! DONNA SPENT MOST OF THE MORNING UP TOPSIDE, THAT IS UNTIL WE TOOK AN ESPECIALLY BIG ONE WHICH SENT SPRAY CLEAR OVER THE BOAT, DRENCHING HER!
1230 - METLAKATLA, INDIAN VILLAGE ABOUT 16 MILES SOUTH OF KETCHIKAN FOUNDED AUGUST 7, 1887 (WE JUST MISSED THE CENTENIAL CELEBRATION) BY THE REVEREND WILLIAM P. DUNCAN AND HIS GROUP OF TSHIMSIAN FOLLOWERS WHO HAD BEEN BOOTED OUT OF A TOWN OF THE SAME NAME NEAR PRINCE RUPERT IN BRITISH COLUMBIA - DOCKED AT AN ALMOST EMPTY FLOAT (SEINER OPENING LASTS UNTIL 9:00 PM TONIGHT) AND WALKED THE SIX BLOCKS TO THE BUSINESS DISTRICT - EASY TO DO BECAUSE FATHER DUNCAN LAID OUT THE TOWN SO THAT EACH HOUSE WAS ON A CORNER LOT AND THE BLOCKS ARE SHORT!
- LOTS OF INDUSTY IN THIS TOWN - AN OPERATING LUMBER MILL (THE FIRST WE'VE SEEN IN ALASKA), BIG COLD STORAGE PLANT, AND A BUDDING TOURIST BUSINESS - AS WE CAME OFF THE DOCKS WE GOT SIDE TRACKED INTO THE LIBRARY AND COMMUNITY BUILDING WHERE A GROUP OF KIDS IN BRIGHT RED AND BLACK COSTUMES WERE DANCING FOR A BUSLOAD OF TOURISTS WHO HAD BEEN FLOWN IN FROM KETCHIKAN - BEFORE WE LEFT THEY WERE EXCHANGED AT THE SEA PLANE DOCK FOR ANOTHER GROUP IN TWO BEAVERS AND AN OTTER
- WANDERED AROUND, WENT TO THE DUNCAN MUSEUM, BOUGHT ICE CREAM CONES FOR THE CREW (WHICH MELTED RAPIDLY IN THE 75 DEGREE WEATHER)
1530 - UNDER WAY - AS WE LEFT WE SENT THE GIRLS TO THE PACKING PLANT FOR ICE AGAIN - I HAD BEEN STUDYING THE CHARTS AND A LITTLE BAY OUT ON THE SOUTH TIP OF GRAVINA ISLAND CALLED DALL BAY LOOKED LIKE A GOOD PLACE TO SPEND THE NIGHT - KIND OF TRICKY GETTING INTO IT BUT I THOUGHT I HAD IT PSYCHED OUT - WELL I DID, ALMOST! MANAGED TO SLIDE UP ON A ROCK! THAT'S SURE A HELPLESS FEELING, ESPECIALLY ON AN OUTGOING TIDE! LUCKILY, IT WAS A NARROW RIDGE AND WHEN I BACKED, WE TURNED AND SLID OFF - LATER, AT LOW TIDE, NAN AND I WENT BACK TO LOOK AND PICK UP THE LITTLE PIECES OF GEL AND GRASS WE SCRAPED OFF THE KEEL - TEN FEET FARTHER TO THE RIGHT AND WE WOULD HAVE CLEARED THE RIDGE!
1630 - ANCHORED IN DALL BAY AFTER ANOTHER, AND SUCCESSFUL, TRY AT MAKING THE ENTRANCE - AS EXPECTED, IT'S A PRETTY SPOT WITH A NICE VIEW OF METLAKATLA IN THE DISTANCE - THE GIRLS TOOK THE METZELER EXPLORING AND LOIS FIXED ME A MUCH NEEDED MARTINI TO SOOTH MY WOUNDED PRIDE - AFTER AN HOUR, AND MUCH SQUEALING FROM THE BEACH, NAN AND DONNA CAME BACK WITH FOUR BIG CRAB WHICH THEY HAD NETTED ON THE MUD FLATS FROM THE METZELER - THEY ARE PRETTY GOOD AT THAT - DID THE SAME THING IN BARKLEY SOUND TWO YEARS AGO!
0925 - OUT OF DALL BAY - STARTING TO GET A LITTLE BIT HAZY WITH THE REMAINS OF A FOG BANK DRIFTING IN FROM DIXON - WIND IS GONE THOUGH, AND WE HAD AN EASY RIDE ACROSS CLARENCE TO CHASINA POINT - ROUNDED THE POINT AND DECIDED TO TAK A LOOK AT CHOLMONDELEY SOUND, A LONG INLET ONE ARM OF WHICH ALMOST JOINS HETTA INLET WHERE WE WERE THREE DAY AGO
1300 - RAN INTO DORA BAY ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF CHOLMONDELEY TO LOOK AT A FLOATING LOGGING CAMP THERE - THE HOMES, OF WHICH THERE WERE THIRTY OR FORTY, LOOKED LIKE THE ONES YOU SEE ON LAKE UNION, MODERN, SUBURBAN STYLE RESIDENCES, COMPLETE WITH FLOWER GARDENS AND PLAY YARDS FOR THE KIDS - TWO OF THEM WERE TWO STORY - A FORTY FOOT SAILBOAT WAS SNUGGLED UP AT THE SIDE OF ONE - FLOATING BOARDWALKS FORMED THE "STREETS" JOINING THE HOUSES
- INTERESTINGLY ENOUGH, AS WE APPROACHED, PEOPLE ON THE FLOATS STUDEOUSLY AVOIDED LOOKING AT US AND THE ONE WOMAN WHO WATCHED US FROM THE WINDOW IN HER HOUSE, CLOSED IT WHEN I WAVED - KIND OF A SHOCK AFTER THE FRIENDLY RECEPTION WE HAVE USUALLY RECEIVED WHEREVER WE'VE GONE!
1425 - PASSED THE "NESIKA" FROM SITKA, A BOAT WITH A SIMILAR LAYOUT TO OURS THAT WE SAW IN EVERETT LAST WINTER
1530 - STARTED FISHING ON "TWENTY FATHOM BANK" AND WITHIN A FEW MINUTES HAD ONE HUMPY (PINK) AND AN IMMATURE CHINOOK, THEN DRIFTED OFF THE BANK AND COULDN'T FIND THE FISH AGAIN
1630 - QUIT FISHING AND RAN ON UP TO SKOWL BAY, THE SITE OF THE HAIDA VILLAGE OF OLD KASAAN - WIND COMING UP NOW AND CLOUDY - WEATHERMAN SAYS TO EXPECT RAIN TOMORROW
1830 - WORKED OUR WAY INTO SMITH COVE AND, AFTER NOT FINDING ANY DECENT PLACE TO ANCHOR, TIED TO A HUGE LOG THAT THE LOGGERS HAVE SET OUT AS A MOORING BUOY - RAIN STARTING NOW - HAD THE GIRLS CRAB FOR DINNER - UMMMMMM, GOOD!
- AS WE PUSHED OUR WAY ALONG TRAILS THROUGH THE BRUSH AND UNDER THE TREES WE KEPT COMING ON MORE AND MORE POLES, GRAVE STONES, AND FALLEN DOWN HOUSE POSTS - MOST HAD BEEN CARVED AND WE COULD SEE A GREAT VARIETY OF FORMS IN THE ROTTED REMAINS - THE SIGNS SAID THAT VANDALS WOULD BE PROSECUTED, BUT THE GREATEST VANDAL OF ALL IS THE FOREST - I LOOKED AT ONE GREAT CARVED POLE, MAYBE SIX FEET IN DIAMETER AND FIFTEEN FEET TALL, WHICH HAD A TREE GROWING OUT OF IT'S TOP - THE TREE WAS ALMOST AS BIG AROUND AS THE POLE AND IT'S ROOTS HAD COME RIGHT DOWN THE CENTER OF THE POLE, SPLITTING IT ALL THE WAY TO THE GROUND - IN 1900 THIS BEACH MUST HAVE PRESENTED A MARVELOUS PICTURE TO THE WORLD - IN ANOTHER FIFTY YEARS THE FOREST WILL HAVE COVERED IT ALL
1130 - BACK AT THE BOAT WE UNTIED FROM OUR LOG BUOY AND HEADED OUT OF SKOWL BAY - DECIDED THAT WE HAD PROBABLY SEEN THE INTERESTING THING IN KASAAN SO HEADED UP CLARENCE STRAIT TOWARD THORNE BAY, A COMMUNITY WE PASSED BY ON OUR TRIP UP IN MAY - RAIN IS EASING OFF NOW - BACK TO THE ANNOYING THING I CALL THE "ALASKA DRIP" - JUST ENOUGH TO MESS UP THE WINDSHIELD BUT NOT ENOUGH TO LUBRICATE THE WIPERS!
1630 - THORNE BAY - FARTHER THAN I THOUGHT - LORI (OUR LORAN C) IS LIEING AGAIN - WE ARE TOO CLOSE TO THE BASE STATION AND SHE CAN EASILY BE TEN MILES OFF IN HER POSITION! THORNE BAY IS A PRETTY BAY BUT A GRUBBY COMMUNITY - ANOTHER LOGGING TOWN, THIS ONE DOESN'T HAVE THE NEAT LOOK OF THE CAMP IN DORA BAY BUT EXUDES THE SAME COMPANY TOWN FEELING OF, "VISITORS NOT WELCOME!" - WE DECIDED TO MOVE ON
1800 - BACK AT MEYER'S CHUCK WHICH WE ENJOYED SO MUCH IN MAY - RAIN ALL GONE NOW - BLUE SKY AND SUNSHINE TO FINISH OFF THE DAY - THE MALAMUTE THAT REMINDED ME SO MUCH OF TOR CAME FOR A VISIT - FOUND HIS NAME IS "CHASE" AND GOT HIS PICTURE - THE GIRLS WENT EXPLORING THEN WE HAD CLAM STRIPS AND CHICKEN GOOD FOR DINNER - GOOD COMBINATION!
THE "NESIKA" IS MOORED NEST TO US - TURNS OUT IT IS RUN BY A COUPLE WHO MAKE THEIR LIVING TAKING FRESH FRUITS, VEGETABLES, AND OTHER SUPPLIES TO SMALL COMMUNITIES THROUGHOUT THE SOUTHEAST - ALSO AT THE DOCK ARE THE "SCARBROUGH" AND THE "AUER-LAND", CRUISERS WE HAVE RUN INTO DURING THE PAST TWO MONTHS - LOOKS LIKE WE AREN'T THE ONLY ONES STARTING TO HEAD SOUTH!
1000 - STOPPED AT SHIP ISLAND TO FISH FOR A WHILE - LOTS OF SPORT FISHERMEN OUT THIS MORNING - DONNA GOT TO PULL IN ONE NICE LITTLE KING BUT HE WASN'T QUITE BIG ENOUGH TO KEEP
1330 - DOCKED AT KETCHIKAN - HARBOR MASTER (PARDON ME! I MEAN PORT AUTHORITY) ACTUALLY ASSIGNED US TO A SLIP AND LET US HOOK UP TO POWER ON THE DOCK FOR $2.00 PER DAY - CHECKED IN, WALKED TO THE POST OFFICE TO PICK UP OUR MAIL, THEN THE GIRLS TOOK THE BIKES SIGHT SEEING, LOIS WENT GROCERY SHOPPING, AND I CLEANED UP THE BOAT AND FILLED THE WATER TANK - CALLED AROUND ON FUEL PRICES AND FOUND IT IS FOUR CENTS LOWER HERE THAN IN SEATTLE SO WE'LL FILL TOMORROW
TOOK THE LADIES TO DINNER AT THE NEW PEKING - THEY SURE SERVE THE BEST CHINESE FOOD THERE!
LATER WE WENT TO THE KETCHIKAN HERITAGE CENTER WHERE WE FOUND LOTS OF PICTURES OF OLD KASAAN AS IT WAS IN 1902 - EVEN THEN MOST OF THE OLD STYLE LONG HOUSES HAD BEEN REPLACED BY FRAME BUILDINGS BUT ONE WAS STILL VISIBLE FROM THE BEACH - THE LIFE IN THE VILLAGES MUST HAVE BEEN PRETTY HARD AS COMPARED TO WHAT WAS OFFERED IN THE WHITE MENS TOWNS - THEY ALMOST ALL WERE ABANDONED SOON AFTER THE TURN OF THE CENTURY
GIRLS FIXED HALIBUT FOR DINNER, PLUS A FINE BIRTHDAY CAKE FOR LOIS - SORRY TO SEE THEM LEAVE TOMORROW! I T'S BEEN GREAT HAVING A COUPLE OF HAPPY SLAVES ABOARD!
SATURDAY AUGUST 15, 1987
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0900 - OFF THE DOCK AT BAR HARBOR FOR THE FUEL DOCK WITH NAN AND DONNA WHILE LOIS TAKES THE CAR TO THE LAUNDERMAT
0945 - WENT PRETTY WELL - WITH THE GIRLS HELPING WE POURED 1388 GALLONS INTO HER IN LESS THAN TWO HOURS WITH ONLY ONE SMALL SPILL WHICH WE CAUGHT BEFORE IT WENT OVERBOARD - WENT SO UNEXPECTEDLY FAST THAT WE FINISHED BEFORE LOIS SHOWED UP
1130 - NAN AND I TOOK THE BOAT BACK TO TONGASS WHERE WE TIED TO THE WHARF WHILE DONNA TOOK ONE OF THE BIKES LOOKING FOR LOIS - NO LUCK THERE SO NAN ALSO GOT ON A BIKE AND WENT LOOKING - FOUND HER IN ABOUT A HALF HOUR BUT THE LADDER DOWN TO THE BOAT WAS A BIT MUCH FOR HER SO SHE TOOK THE CAR BACK AND WE TOOK THE BOAT BACK TO BAR HARBOR TO MEET HER
1300 - WITH ALL ON BOARD AGAIN AND EVERYTHING STOWED WE HEADED OFF TO FIND A SMALL ADVENTURE ON THE GIRLS LAST DAY - WENT DOWN TO THE SOUTH END OF THE TONGASS NARROWS TO BLIND INLET AND DROPPED OUR ANCHOR THERE IN A LITTLE COVE BETWEEN THE BLIND ISLANDS - HAD A GOOD TIME IN THE TIDE POOLS AND ON THE BEACH UNTIL IT WAS TIME FOR A LAST DINNER OF BROILED SALMON
2000 - DROPPED THE GIRLS WITH THEIR SIXTY POUND PACKS ON THE AIRCRAFT FLOAT AT THE AIRPORT - CURRENT SO STRONG THEY HAD TO HELP PUSH US OFF AND I GOT BLACK MARKS ON THE HULL FROM THE TIRE FENDERS BUT OTHER THAN THAT IT WENT WELL
2030 - DOCKED AT THE LOADING DOCK AT TONGASS - NOT SUPPOSED TO STAY OVERNIGHT BUT WE'LL BE GONE EARLY IN THE AM - FISHERMAN NAMED PAUL STREET STOPPED BY TO SAY HELLO - HE IS A FRIEND OF RICH PAKKER'S
0830 - RUNNING DOWN REVILLAGIGEDO CHANNEL GOT A CALL FROM THE ALASKA STATE FERRY, "AURORA", COMPLEMENTING US ON OUR BOAT AND WISHING US WELL - EVERYWHERE WE GO IT'S THE SAME STORY, PEOPLE SEEM TO LIKE OUR HOME!
1130 - ANCHORED IN FOGGY BAY, SORT OF THE JUMPING OFF PLACE FOR CANADA - ONLY FORTY MILES FROM HERE TO PRINCE RUPERT SO WE CAN GET IN EARLY TOMORROW TO CLEAR CUSTOMS - IT'S A NICE LITTLE HARBOR, GOOD MUD BOTTOM, ALMOST TOTALLY ENCLOSED BY TREES - HAS A NARROW ROCK FILLED ENTRANCE BUT THERE IS A SPECIAL CHART THAT SHOWS ALL THE DANGERS
CHANGED OIL AND FILTERS ON BOTH THE GMC AND ONAN, CLEANED AND GREASED THE WATER PUMP, AND LUBED THE FLOPPER STOPPERS - JUST AN EASY MAINTENANCE AFTERNOON - THEN WE TOOK A LITTLE WALK ON SHORE - AS SOON AS YOU GET AWAY FROM THE ROCKY BEACH IT'S A MUSKEG SHORE WITH HEATHER AND MOSS SO DEEP WE SANK TO OUR BOOT TOPS - LOTS OF BUNCH BERRY, RED HUCKLEBERRY AND CROW BERRY - ALSO THE USUAL SIGN OF BEAR - IT'S SURPRIZING THAT WE'VE ONLY SEEN THE ONE BEAR IN ALASKA, AS MUCH SIGN AS WE'VE SEEN!
1030 (PDT) - HOLIDAY ISLAND AND DOWN CHATHAM SOUND THROUGH HOLIDAY PASSAGE, PAST LUCY ISLAND, AND IN THROUGH THE RANGES AND BUOYS OF VENN PASSAGE AND THE CANADIAN METLAKATLA TO PRINCE RUPERT HARBOR - LORIE WENT APE ABOUT MIDWAY DOWN CHATHAM - STARTED RUNNING US NORTH - WITHIN AN HOUR SHE HAD US WAY UP NORTH OF KETCHIKAN - THE SHOAL HARBOR STATION IS EVIDENTLY ON THE BLINK
1400 - DOCKED AT RUSHBROOKE IN PRINCE RUPERT - CALLED CUSTOMS AND CHECKED IN WITH HARBORMASTER - NICE YOUNG LADY CAME DOWN AND SEALED UP OUR BOOZE WHICH I HAD INVENTORIED AND PACKED IN THREE BOXES - DUMPED OUR WASTE OIL AND TRASH, THEN GOT OUT THE BIKES AND WENT TO TOWN FOR GROCERIES AND BEER
WENT TO SMILES AGAIN FOR DINNER - HAD GOOD FISH AND CHIPS PLUS A CARAFE OF WHITE WINE FOR $20 - NOT BAD! RAINING BY THE TIME WE STARTED HOME - RODE FAST BUT STILL GOT SOAKED!
1057 - HEADED OUT - DOWN THRU THE HARBOR AND OUT THE WAY WE CAME IN LAST MAY - PAST THE LAWYERS AND KENNEDY ISLAND BUT THEN SOUTHWEST THROUGH OGDEN PASSAGE INSTEAD OF STAYING INSIDE
1415 - LOTS OF FISH JUMPING SO WE STOPPED TO FISH FOR A WHILE OFF OONA POINT - NO LUCK!
1500 - ON OUR WAY AGAIN - PASSED THE "BEAVER ROCK" WHICH APPEARED TO BE ONE OF THE SURPLUS FOREST SERVICE BOATS WE SAW LAST FALL
1600 - PASSED THE INDIAN VILLAGE OF KIKATLA AND RAN ON OUT THOUGH BEAVER PASSAGE - AS WE CAME OUT ONTO HECATE STRAIT THE WATER WAS JUST AS FLAT AS IT HAD BEEN IN THE INLETS - NO WIND, OCCASIONAL SHOWERS, LOTS OF SUN
1800 - OVER THE SHALLOW BAR AND INTO THE ENTRANCE TO LARSEN HARBOUR WHERE WE TIED TO ONE OF THE SIX MOORING BUOYS - KIND OF SPOOKY GETTING IN - ONLY ABOUT 20 FEET DEEP FOR THE LAST MILE AND LOTS OF KELP! SURE A PRETTY PLACE TO JUMP OFF FROM ON THE RUN TO SKIDEGATE
0925 - WIND AND SEA PICKING UP A BIT NOW - ABOUT 15 KNOTS AND A COUPLE OF FEET - WE'RE RUNNING ALMOST DIRECTLY ACROSS IT SO WE DECIDED TO TAKE THE SPEED PENALTY AND PUT DOWN THE FLOPPER STOPPERS
1155 - GLAD WE HAVE THE STABIES DOWN NOW - WIND IS ABOUT THE SAME BUT THERE IS A NASTY CHOP COMING FROM THE NORTH WHICH IS FORCING US TO QUARTER TO BE COMFORTABLE - THAT'S OK! WE'LL TACK BACK SOUTH IF NECESSARY
1300 - SEEING THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE COAST NOW - MOUNTAINS TO THE SOUTH, LONG AND FEATURLESS TO THE NORTH - THERE IS A VERY WIDE, LIKE FIVE MILES, BAR OFF THE NORTHEAST COAST OF THE ISLANDS WHICH HAS SOME SHOLES ON IT - WE'RE TRYING TO HIT A RANGE MARKING THE SAFE PASSAGE TO SKIDEGATE INLET - GLAD THE LORAN IS WORKING RIGHT TODAY - FOR THE FIRST TIME I USED THE LITTLE DIRECTION FINDING RADIO - AS A CHECK ON THE LORAN - IT POINTED US RIGHT TO THE LAWN POINT BEACON
1500 - THOUGH OUR FIRST LANDFALL SAFELY AND IN THE INLET HEADING FOR SKIDEGATE, I'M KIND OF SHOCKED AT WHAT I SEE - IN SUCH AN ISOLATED LOCATION I'D BEEN EXPECTING SCENERY SIMILAR TO WHAT WE'VE BEEN SEEING IN SOUTHEAST ALASKA - INSTEAD THE MOUNTAINS, AT LEAST AROUND SKIDEGATE, HAVE BEEN STRIPPED OF TREES - LOOKS WORSE THAN THE CASCADE FOOTHILLS, PROBABLY BECAUSE IT IS MORE RECENT - I'M BEGINNING TO UNDERSTAND THE ARTICLE IN NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC ON BILL REID AND THE FUSS BETWEEN THE INDIANS AND LOGGERS!
1800 - ANCHORED IN ALLIFORD HARBOR ACROSS FROM THE TOWN OF SKIDEGATE - ADVERTISED AS A MUD BOTTOM, WE FOUND A ROCK OUTCROPPING - TOO POOPED AFTER THE LONG DAY TO RESET THE ANCHOR SO WE'LL LISTEN TO THE CHAIN RUMBLE ALL NIGHT!
0900 - PULLED ANCHOR AND RAN OVER TO QUEEN CHARLOTTE CITY WHERE WE FOUND A PLACE ON THE FLOAT ALL SAVED FOR US - NICE SUNNY MORNING SO WE SAT AROUND AND TALKED TO A COUPLE OF DANISH FISHERMEN FROM VICTORIA NAMED PETERSEN - GAVE US SOME GOOD POINTERS ON WHAT TO SEE IN THE CHARLOTTES
1100 - FOUND THAT THERE ARE TWO CAR RENTAL OPERATIONS HERE SO WE RENTED A LITTLE CHEVY PICKUP AND HEADED OFF TO THE NORTH TO SEE WHAT WE COULD OF GRAHAM ISLAND - TURNED OUT TO BE A NICE CHANGE FROM OUR USUAL CRUISING FARE
THERE IS AN EXCELLENT HIGHWAY FROM QUEEN CHARLOTTE CITY FOR 113 KILOMETERS (60 MILES) TO MASSETT AND HAIDA ON THE NORTH END OF THE ISLANDS - WE DROVE THAT, STOPPING IN PORT CLEMENTS FOR LUNCH AND A SIDE TRIP TO SEE THE "GOLDEN SPRUCE" (A MUTANT SPRUCE WITH BLEACHED NEEDLES) AND AN UNFINISHED HAIDA CEDAR CANOE FAR BACK IN THE WOODS, AND THEN ALONG A GRAVEL ROAD OUT TO TOW HILL IN THE NAIKOON PROVICIAL PARK - HAIDA LEGEND HAS IT THAT RAVEN FOUND THE FIRST HUMANS IN A CLAM SHELL ON THE BEACH AT "NAI-KUN", OR LONG NOSE, REFERRING TO THE LONG SAND SPIT NOW CALLED ROSE POINT - ON THE WAY THERE IS A STRETCH OF ROAD THROUGH THE RAIN FOREST WHERE THE MOSS GROWS SO HEAVILY ON THE GNARLED LIMBS OF THE BIG SPRUCE TREES THAT IT LOOKS LIKE THERE ARE ANIMALS CLIMBING THEM
STARTED RAINING PRETTY HARD BY THE TIME WE GOT TO TOW HILL AND WE WERE SURPRIZED AT HOW MANY CAMPERS THERE WERE AT THE CAMPING AND PICNIC GROUNDS OUT THERE - THERE WERE EVEN A DOZEN OR SO SUMMER HOMES ON THE REMOTE NORTH BEACH ALONG DIXON ENTRANCE - AT LEAST GRAHAM ISLAND IS MORE DEVELOPED THAN I HAD IMAGINED
GOT BACK TO THE BOAT ABOUT 7:00 PM - TOMORROW WE'LL TRY TO HIT THE MUSEUM AND LONGHOUSE AT SKIDEGATE
WENT TO THE SKIDEGATE MUSEUM WHICH HAS A SUPER COLLECTION OF ARGILLITE AS WELL AS SEVERAL OLD POLES, A LOCAL HISTORY EXHIBIT AND A LARGE COLLECTION OF FOSSILS
1100 - BACK ON THE BOAT AND ON OUR WAY - NICE DAY, NO WIND TO SPEAK OF, WEATHER FORECAST SAID MODERATE WINDS (10 - 20 KNOTS) IN THE STRAIT - I DIDN'T EVEN PUT THE POLES OUT! BY THE TIME WE GOT OUT OF THE INLET AND STARTED AROUND THE LONG BAR THAT EXTENDS OFF SANDSPIT WE WERE GETTING ENOUGH CHOP THAT I DECIDED WE BETTER PUT OUT THE POLES - STILL DIDN'T THINK WE WOULD NEED THEM ONCE WE TURNED INTO THE SEAS
1300 - AROUND THE BUOY NOW AND HEADING ACROSS THE SHALLOW BAR, ABOUT FIVE MILES OF 2 TO 5 FATHOM WATER - SEAS ABOUT 3 FEET NOW WITH AN OCCASIONAL ONE BIGGER SO I DROP IN THE STABILIZER FOILS TO ENABLE US TO HOLD THE COURSE WE WANT
1400 - SHE'S REALLY GETTING LUMPY OUT HERE NOW, AS THE FISHERMEN SAY - GUSTS TO 35 KNOTS, SEAS FOUR AND FIVE FEET AND COMING FROM SEVERAL DIRECTIONS AND VERY STEEP - WE HAVE TO SLOW DOWN TO KEEP FROM BURYING THE STEM ON EVERY WAVE - WE DECIDE TO GO FOR CUMSHEWA INLET RATHER THAN THURSTON HARBOR, OUR ORIGINAL PLANNED DESTINATION
1730 - FINALLY TURNED THE CORNER AND HEADED DOWNWIND INTO CUMSHEWA - HAD TO GO ABOUT THREE MILES BEYOND IN ORDER TO KEEP FROM RUNNING IN THE TROUGH
2000 - ANCHORED IN BEATTIE ANCHORAGE ABOUT 12 MILES INSIDE OF CUMSHEWA - TWO BUOYS HERE BUT ALREADY FOUR OTHER BOATS SO WE DROPPED THE HOOK AND POURED OUR EVENING MARTINI FEELING LIKE WE HAD EARNED IT TODAY!
0930 - OFF THE BUOY AND OUT THE INLET ON A BEAUTIFUL DAY - THE TWO HOURS TO THE MOUTH SURE SEEMED SHORTER THIS MORNING
1130 - SKEDANS - SURPRIZED TO SEE SMOKE COMING FROM THE BEACH AT THE "ABANDONED" VILLAGE OF SKEDANS - AS WE GOT CLOSER WE SAW THAT THERE WAS A LARGE TENT WITH A HAIDA EAGLE DESIGN ON THE FRONT PLUS OTHER BUILDINGS IN THE TREES JUST BACK OF THE BEACH - A MAN WAS FEEDING THE FIRE AND A CHILD WAS PLAYING NEARBY - THE REMAINS OF A FEW OLD POLES WERE VISIBLE FROM THE SOUTH BEACH - DIDN'T STOP, NOT WANTING TO INTRUDE, BUT GOT TO THINKING LATER THAT A GROUP CALLED THE "HAIDA GWAII WATCHMEN" ARE OFFERING TOURS OF THE OLD VILLAGE SITES ON A COMMERCIAL BASIS - THAT MAY HAVE BEEN WHAT WE WERE SEEING
1300 - OFF THE MOUTH OF THURSTON HARBOUR ON TALUNKWAN ISLAND WHERE WE WERE ORIGINALLY HEADED YESTERDAY - DROPPED THE SALMON GEAR IN THE WATER AND SOON HAD A NICE FIVE POUND COHO - FISHED FOR ANOTHER HOUR AND A HALF BUT COULDN'T GET ANOTHER ONE - COULDN'T KEEP THE ROCKFISH OFF THE HOOK LONG ENOUGH! TOUGH LIFE!
1530 - TIED TO A MOORING BUOY IN THE VERY PRETTY HEAD OF THE INLET - THE ONLY THINGS MARRING THE BEAUTY ARE THE CLEARCUT HILLS SURROUNDING THE INLET - GOT DOWN THE METZELER AND WENT TO THE BEACH LOOKING FOR A PLACE TO DROP THE CRAB POT - NO LUCK! COULDN'T FIND ANY CRAB GRASS OR, FOR THAT MATTER, ANY SIGN OF LIFE IN THE SHALLOW WATERS - WALKED AROUND THE HEAD OF THE BAY ON THE TIDE FLATS AND ALL WE COULD FIND WERE MUSSELS, AND THOSE WIDELY SEPARATED - STRANGE! SAW LOTS OF DEER TRACKS THOUGH!
SEVERAL FISHERMEN IN THE BAY - NOT DOING VERY WELL! - TALKED TO ONE WHO SAID THEY HAD BEEN FISHING FOR THREE DAYS AND HAD THREE FISH ON THE BOAT! SAID IT'S A BIT EARLY FOR THE COHO RUN - I GUESS WE WERE LUCKY TO HAVE FRESH SALMON FOR DINNER
I NTERESTING WATCHING THEM WORK ON THE BUOYS - EACH IS MADE OF FOUR STACKS OF FOUR TIRES TIED TOGETHER WITH STEEL PLATES TOP AND BOTTOM - THE TOP PLATE HAS A LARGE, EASY TO TIE TO BEAM WELDED TO IT - THE SCOW WOULD GRAB THAT BAR WITH ITS DERRICK AND LIFT THE WHOLE THING, PLUS TWO HUGE CONCRETE ANCHORS, UP ON THE DECK WHERE THEY WOULD SCRAPE OFF THE GROWTH AND THEN PAINT THE TIRES WHITE AND THE TIE BAR RED - THE WHOLE PROCESS TOOK ABOUT TWENTY MINUTES THEN THEY WERE OFF TO THE NEXT ONE
0830 - DECIDED WE MIGHT AS WELL FISH OUR WAY OUT OF THE HARBOR - ALL WE COULD HOOK WAS ROCKFISH SO PULLED THE GEAR AND RAN ON AROUND HEMMING HEAD ON TALUNKWAN ISLAND, PAST THE TANGIL PENINSULA AND OVER TO TANU
1000 - SEA WAS ALMOST FLAT SO WE DROPPED OUR HOOK RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE OLD VILLAGE OF TANU AND TOOK THE METZELER TO THE NORTH BEACH WHERE SOMEONE, PROBABLY THE HAIDA GWAII WATCHMEN, HAD BUILT A SHELTER - A SHORT WALK THROUGH THE FOREST TOOK US TO THE SOUTH BEACH AND THE MOSS COVERED REMAINS OF MAYBE FIFTY HOUSES - THERE ARE ONLY A FEW HOUSE POSTS AND BROKEN BEAMS STILL STANDING AND WE COULD ONLY FIND ONE REALLY RECOGNIZABLE CARVING, BUT THE OUTLINES OF THE HOUSES WERE VERY APPARENT - THE ROOF LOGS HAVE FALLEN ACROSS THE SUNKEN LIVING AREAS IN THE CENTER OF THE HOUSE AND THICK MOSS COVERS EVERYTHING - A FEW POLES THAT LOOKED LIKE THEY MIGHT HAVE BEEN CARVED ALSO LAY COVERED WITH MOSS - IT MUST HAVE BEEN THE HOME OF SEVERAL HUNDRED PEOPLE AT ONE TIME
1200 - ON OUR WAY AGAIN - REALLY WARMING UP NOW SO I HOOKED UP THE REMOTE CONTROL ON THE AUTO PILOT AND WE SAT ON THE FRONT DECK SOAKING UP THE SUN ALL THE WAY UP RICHARDSON INLET - WHEN WE GOT TO DARWIN SOUND WE RAN ACROSS AND INTO A LITTLE INLET CALLED "ECHO HARBOUR" AND DRIFTED THERE IN THE SUNSHINE WHILE WE HAD SOME LUNCH - IT WOULD BE A GREAT ANCHORAGE ON SOME FUTURE TRIP
1330 - RAN SOUTH THROUGH DARWIN SOUND AROUND THE SOUTHWEST TIP OF LYELL ISLAND, THROUGH THE BISHOF ISLANDS (ANOTHER POSSIBLE ANCHORAGE), AND OVER TOWARD THE WARMSPRING ISLAND WE HAD BEEN TOLD ABOUT - AS WE NEARED IT WE SAW THAT THERE WERE AT LEAST SEVEN BOATS ANCHORED IN FRONT SO WE DECIDED TO SAVE OUR HOT BATH FOR ANOTHER DAY AND DIVERTED TO MURCHISON ISLAND WHERE THE BOOK SAYS THERE ARE MOORING BUOYS
1700 - TIED TO A BUOY ON THE NORTH SIDE OF MURCHISON ISLAND - NEAT PLACE AFTER WE GOT IN, BUT THE CHART IS A LITTLE AMBIGUOUS ON WHERE THE ROCKS ARE LOCATED ON THE WAY IN SO I HAD LOIS OUT ON THE BOW WATCHING AS WE CAME IN DEAD SLOW - AFTER DINNER, AT LOW TIDE, I WENT OUT IN THE METZELER AND LOOKED OVER THE ENTRANCES - THE CHART IS RIGHT, JUST HARD TO READ WITHOUT HAVING BEEN THERE
1000 - AFTER LOOKING AT THE CHARTS I HAD DECIDED THAT DOLOMITE NARROWS, OR BURNABY NARROWS AS THE LOCALS CALL THEM, WERE NOT FOR US IN SPITE OF THE GLOWING DESCRIPTIONS OF THEIR SEA LIFE SO WE RAN AROUND BURNABY ISLAND INTO SKINCUTTLE INLET - SEA WAS SMOOTH AND WE HAD ANOTHER NICE RUN DOWNWIND IN THE SUNSHINE
1300 - DECIDED THAT BAG HARBOUR, JUST SOUTH OF BURNABY NARROWS, LOOKED LIKE A GOOD ANCHORAGE SO WE HEADED THERE, PLANNING TO TAKE THE METZELER AND LOOK AT THE NARROWS - PASSED A GROUP OF KAYAKERS ON A NICE SAND SPIT ON THE WEST END OF BOLKUS ISLAND
1400 - ANCHORED IN BAG HARBOUR AND WENT TO LOOK AT THE NARROWS JUST BEFORE HICH TIDE - A COUPLE OF SAILBOATS WERE JUST COMING THOUGH AND THERE WAS A LARGE GROUP OF KAYAKERS ON THE BEACH IN THE CENTER OF THE NARROWS - THERE ARE A SET OF UNOFFICIAL RANGES TO GUIDE YOU THOUGH A CHANNEL THAT ACCORDING TO THE CHART DRYS AT ONE FOOT - THAT MEANS WE WOULD HAVE TO HAVE AT LEAST AN 8 1/2 FOOT TIDE TO CLEAR THE BOTTOM - ALSO WE FOUND THAT THERE WAS A THREE TO FOUR KNOT CURRENT RUNNING AND THE FLOOD SETS TO THE SOUTH, SO THE BOATS GOING THROUGH ON THE RISING TIDE WERE GOING AT A PRETTY GOOD CLIP
FOOLED AROUND THE REST OF THE AFTERNOON CLEANING THE BOAT AND DIVE GEAR - TOOK A LITTLE WALK THROUGH THE WOODS WHICH HAVE THE SAME THICK MOSS COVERING EVERYTHING (I HAVE A FEELING WE ARE SEEING THE CHARLOTTES IN A VERY RARE DRY PERIOD) - AFTER DINNER WE WENT BACK TO THE NARROWS TO SEE IT AT LOW TIDE - THE BOOKS ARE RIGHT! I T IS A VERY SPECIAL PLACE! I 'VE NEVER SEEN ANY COLLECTION OF SEA LIFE LIKE IT - EVERYTHING FROM MOON SNAILS TO SEA URCHINS AND LITTLE FISH SWIMMING AROUND IN AN OUTDOOR AQUARIUM - WE HAD FORGOTTEN TO BRING A BUCKET OR SHOVEL BUT WHEN WE STOPPED ON THE BEACH I PICKED UP A LARGE CLAM SHELL AND SCRAPED AWAY A COUPLE OF INCHES OF SANDY GRAVEL AND UNCOVERED THREE CLAMS! I N FIVE MINUTES OF SCRAPING WE HAD ENOUGH FOR A COUPLE OF DINNERS!
WHILE WE WERE SIGHTSEEING THE BOTTOM LOIS SPOTTED A DIVER'S WEIGHT BELT ON THE BOTTOM - WE DIDN'T HAVE ANYTHING TO GRAB IT WITH SO I'LL GO BACK AND GET IT ON THE MORNING LOW - DISCOVERED WE HAD MISINTERPRETED THE RANGES SO HERE IS A DRAWING, JUST IN CASE WE SHOULD EVER WANT TO TRY IT!
0930 - UPPED ANCHOR AND ON OUR WAY IN SEARCH OF NEW ADVENTURES - BACK OUT INTO SKINCUTTLE INLET, PAST THE TAILINGS OF AN ABANDONED COPPER MINE AT JEDWAY, AND OUT ONTO THE BIG HECATE - SHE'S STILL AGAIN THIS MORNING! I T'S CLOUDY BUT NO WIND, AND THERE IS BARELY A MOVEMENT OF THE WATER
1200 - ROUNDED GARCIN ROCKS AND HEADED INTO HOUSTON STEWART CHANNEL JUST NORTH OF KUNGHIT ISLAND, THE SOUTHERNMOST OF THE CHARLOTTES
1255 - WHALES SURFACED JUST IN FRONT OF US BEWEEN KOYA AND LANGFORD POINTS - DIDN'T LOOK BIG ENOUGH TO BE HUMPIES, MAYBE NIMKE?
1330 - TIED TO A BUOY AT ROSE HARBOUR - THERE IS QUITE A LITTLE SETTLEMENT HERE AT THE SITE OF AN OLD WHALING STATION - FOUR HOUSES PLUS SOME OTHER BUILDINGS LINE THE SHORE OF THE LITTLE BAY
- TIED TO ANOTHER BUOY IS A LITTLE 30 FOOT MOTOR SAILOR THAT WE HAVE SEEN BEFORE, FIRST IN CUMSHEWA AND THEN AT THURSTON HARBOUR - GOT DOWN THE METZELER AND MOTORED OVER TO TALK TO THE SKIPPER - TURNS OUT HIS NAME IS WAYNE RECKER, HE'S FROM QUEEN CHARLOTTE CITY AND IS RUNNING A SUMMER CHARTERING BUSINESS WITH HIS BOAT, THE "WAY-SHE-GOES" - HE TOLD US THAT A GROUP OF 12 QUEEN CHARLOTTERS FORMED A CORPORATION AND BOUGHT ROSE HARBOUR AS A SUMMER RESORT - SURE LOOKS LIKE A NEAT PLACE TO GET AWAY! - WAYNE WAS WAITING FOR HIS WIFE AND KIDS TO JOIN HIM FOR THE RETURN TRIP
- LATER THEY CAME OVER FOR A DRINK AND SOME CONVERSATION - SHE, SHIELA, IS AN RN WORKING AT THE HOSPITAL IN Q.C. CITY, HE IS A HEAVY EQUIPMENT MECHANIC WORKING FOR THE LOGGING COMPANY - THEY HAVE A GIRL ABOUT SIX, MARTY, AND A BOY THREE, WARREN - HE HOPES TO GET A BIGGER BOAT AND TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE INCREASED TOURIST BUSINESS THAT HE THINKS THE NEW NATIONAL PARK WILL BRING - NICE FAMILY!
WENT TO BED WITH THE FOG ROLLING IN, HOPING IT WILL BE BETTER IN THE MORNING - ABOUT 2:00 AM WOKE TO THE SOUND OF SOMETHING BANGING THE BOAT - THOUGHT AT FIRST IT WAS THE BUOY, BUT IT HAD TOO MUCH OF A RING TO IT - THEN WE HEARD SOME STRANGE CALLS OF SOME ANIMAL AND I GOT UP TO LOOK - FLYING ALL AROUND OUR RIGGING IN THE LIGHT OF OUR ANCHOR LIGHT WERE HUNDREDS OF BIRDS - THEY WERE EVIDENTLY DISORIENTED BY THE FOG AND THE LIGHT AND KEPT BUMPING INTO THE RIGGING AND THE FLOPPER STOPPER POLES - EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE ONE WOULD KNOCK HIMSELF OUT AND LAND ON THE DECK, FLOPPING AND CRYING - WHEN I TURNED OUT THE ANCHOR LIGHT THEY ALL WENT AWAY! - THEY WERE SMALL BIRDS, ABOUT THE SIZE OF A ROBIN - LOOKED SORT OF LIKE A MINIATURE PIGEON
0900 - WE FOLLOW THE "WAY-SHE-GOES" ON IN AND ANCHOR JUST IN FRONT OF THE VILLAGE - WAYNE HAS SOMEHOW GOTTEN WORD THAT THE TENDERS FOR THE SHIP WON'T BE LANDING UNTIL 11:00 AM SO WE HOP IN THE METZELER AND GO ASHORE - IT'S LOW TIDE AND WE MAKE A DIFFICULT LANDING ON A LONG, KELP COVERED ROCK BEACH - WE ARE TRYING TO DECIDE HOW TO SECURE THE METZELER WHEN A GUY COMES OUT WAVING US OFF AND ASKING IF WE HAVE "PERMITS" - WAYNE HAD TOLD US ABOUT THE PERMIT REQUIREMENT BECAUSE SHIELA HAD PAID $40.00 FOR THEIR FAMILY OF FOUR IN QUEEN CHARLOTTE CITY AND THE FORGOT TO BRING THE PERMITS - WE FORKED OVER OUR $20.00 BUT THE GUY REFUSED TO BELIEVE THAT THE RECKERS HAD PERMITS SO, RATHER THAN PAY TWICE, THEY LEFT - SHOCK NUMBER 2!
THE COLLECTOR TELLS US THERE IS A BETTER LANDING BEACH AROUND THE POINT, SO I LEAVE LOIS AND TAKE THE METZELER BACK OUT AND AROUND - IT WAS A BETTER BEACH, BUT ALSO MORE SURGE, AND I HAVE TO FIGHT FOR SPACE WITH SOME OF THE BIG CRUISE SHIP INFLATABLES ON A SCOUTING EXPEDITION - FINALLY GET THE SKIFF SECURED AND HEAD UP THE BEACH WHEN I MEET THE GUY WE SAW IN SKIDEGATE AT THE HAIDA BAND HEADQUARTERS - HE IS WALKING AROUND WITH A HANDHELD RADIO AND SEEMS TO BE IN CHARGE - HE ASKS IF I HAD PERMITS AND I SAID, "YEH, YOUR BUDDY IN BLUE TAPPED US FOR $20.00." - WITH THAT HE GOT VERY UNFRIENDLY! SAID, "WE GET TIRED OF THAT ATTITUDE FROM YOU PEOPLE! WE OWN THESE ISLANDS! WE CAN DO WHAT WE WANT WITH THEM!" - SHOCK NUMBER THREE!
SINCE LOIS WAS AROUND THE BEACH I COULDN'T JUST LEAVE, SO I FOUND HER AND WE WALKED AROUND A BIT TAKING SOME PICTURES OF THE OLD POLES AND LONGHOUSE RUINS - THE HAIDAS DO HAVE A LEGITIMATE BITCH, MANY OF THE BEAUTIFULLY CARVED OLD MORTUARY POLES HAD BEEN DEFACED AND VANDALIZED BY SOUVENIER HUNTERS - CONTROL IS NEEDED, BUT I'M NOT SURE THEY ARE GOING ABOUT IT IN THE RIGHT WAY
1015 - WEIGHED ANCHOR AND HEADED BACK INTENDING TO SPEND THE NIGHT IN ONE OF THE ANCHORAGES ON THE EAST SIDE OF KUNGHIT ISLAND - SUN'S OUT AGAIN, NO WIND, AND AFTER LISTENING TO THE WEATHER FORECAST WE DECIDE THAT THERE WILL PROBABLY NEVER BE A BETTER TIME TO HEAD FOR THE MAINLAND!
1125 - METZELER UP, I SET A MAGNETIC COURSE OF 98 DEGREES FOR THE NAWITTI BAR, 134 NAUTICAL MILES AWAY WHILE LOIS STARTS TYING THINGS DOWN (WE HAVE NO DESIRE TO HAVE THINGS FLOPPING AROUND LIKE THEY DID THE OTHER DAY ON HECATE STRAIT!) - AS IT TURNED OUT, WE DIDN'T EVEN HAVE TO EVER PUT IN THE STABLIZER FOILS - THE WHOLE TRIP WAS SMOOTH, WITH SEAS A SMALL CHOP ON A LOW SWELL
1300 - CALLED THE FOLKS AT THE LAKE THROUGH THE CAPE ST. JAMES MARINE OPERATOR AND GOT TO TALK TO SHIRLEY AND MOM - DAD'S INTO THE DOCTOR AND DON IS OUT FISHING!
1430 - LOIS STANDS WATCH WHILE I CATCH AN HOUR NAP
1830 - DINNER UNDERWAY - GOOD STROGANOF! - NO LAND IN SIGHT NOW - SEA GOING FLAT AS THE LITTLE BREEZE DIES - LOIS STANDS WATCH AGAIN WHILE I TRY TO SLEEP - HARD TO RELAX ON OUR FIRST EVER REAL PASSAGE!
2045 - LOIS WAKENS ME AS IT IS GETTING PRETTY DARK, THERE'S ANOTHER BOAT ON THE HORIZON, AND SHE ISN'T SURE SHE HAS THE RIGHT LIGHTS ON
2200 - REALLY DARK NOW - CAN'T SEE THE WATER IN FRONT OF THE BOAT - LOTS OF STARS OUT BUT NO MOON - KIND OF SPOOKY, RUNNING IN THE BLACK - I CUT THE RPM TO 1100 AND WE FINISH THE DAY ALL BY OURSELVES ON THE BIG WATER
THURSDAY AUGUST 27, 1987
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0000 - LATITUDE 51 DEGREES 19.41 MINUTES NORTH, LONGITUDE 129 DEGREES 00.76 MINUTES WEST - ABOUT THREE QUARTERS OF THE WAY NOW AND ABOUT 100 NM BEHIND US - THERE'S A LIGHT OFF TO THE NORTH AND THE RADAR SHOWS A BLIP ABOUT FOUR MILES OFF OUR PORT QUARTER - IT'S BEEN THERE QUITE A WHILE NOW - PROBABLY A FISHING BOAT
HEADED IN THE SAME DIRECTION WE ARE GOING
0100 - A GLOWING CLOUD HAS BEEN FORMING OFF TO THE NORTH AND NOW IT IS GETTING BRIGHT ENOUGH FOR ME TO BE SURE THAT WE ARE SEEING A DISPLAY OF THE NORTHERN LIGHTS - CAN'T SEE ANY COLOR, BUT THE VEIL SHAPE IS VERY APPARENT
0130 - A THUMP AND SUDDEN REDUCTION IN RPM BRINGS ME WIDE AWAKE IN THE DARK! PROBABLY HIT A BIG BALL OF KELP WITH MAYBE SOME LINE IN IT - A CHECK OF THE ENGINE ROOM SHOWS EVERYTHING HUMMING ALONG - I SLOW DOWN TO 900 RPM FOR THE REST OF THE NIGHT
0500 - TWENTY MILES OUT - I CALL BULL HARBOUR RADIO AND TALK TO A NICE YOUNG LADY WHO ADVISES TAKING A LOOK AT THE BAR BEFORE COMMITTING OURSELVES
0530 - FINALLY SHOWING A LITTLE LIGHT OFF TO THE NORTHEAST - WE
ARE NEARING LAND NOW AND I AM SEEING IT ON THE RADAR SCREEN - THE LORAN HAS PUT IS RIGHT ON TARGET!
0700 - ON THE NAWITTI BAR - I HAD BEEN WONDERING IF WE WOULD HAVE TO STAND OFF UNTIL THE TIDE TURNED BUT WITH NO WIND AND A LOW SEA THE BAR WAS A LITTLE BOUNCY BUT NO PROBLEM - I CAN SEE THAT IT COULD BE A REAL BEAR IN BAD WEATHER THOUGH!
0800 - DOCKED ON THE FLOAT IN BULL HARBOUR - WE SHOWER AND TRY TO SLEEP BUT ARE TOO WOUND UP TO SLEEP SOUNDLY - ABOUT 2:00 WE DRESS AND TAKE THE METZELER OVER TO THE COAST GUARD DOCK - ELANE IS THE ONLY ONE OF THE BOAT CREW WE MET LAST YEAR WHO IS HERE - SHE HAS BEEN TRANSFERED AND THE OTHERS ARE ON THE OPPOSITE TWO WEEK CYCLE
WE WALKED UP TO THE STATION WHERE WE FIRST WENT OUT ON ROLLER BAY TO WATCH THE WAVES ROLLING THE STONES, AND THEN FOUND AND TALKED TO HARRY THE MAINTENANCE MAN AND RADIO OPERATORS, RICK AND BRIAN - BRIAN INVITED US IN AND SHOWED US PICTURES HE TOOK OF US AND OUR BOAT LAST THANKSGIVING - CHARLEY PATCHELL, HIS DAD DIED LAST SPRING BUT HE SAYS HIS MOTHER IS WELL - HE LOADED US UP WITH BULL HARBOUR MUGS AND "T" SHIRTS AND INVITED US TO COME TO THE REC ROOM FOR A DRINK BUT WE DECLINED - BY THAT TIME BOTH OF US WERE FADING FAST - WENT BACK TO THE BOAT, HAD A DINNER OF BARNABY NARROWS CLAMS, AND CRASHED!
1015 - FISHED FOR A WHILE BETWEEN BULL HARBOUR ENTRANCE AND THE NAWITTI BAR LIGHT WHERE BRIAN SAID HE HAD GOOD LUCK - HARRY WAS OUT THIS MORNING FISHING WITH HIS TWO DOGS - LOIS CAUGHT A NICE LITTLE COHO - JUST RIGHT FOR DINNER FOR TWO!
1100 - HEADED SOUTH DOWN GOLETAS CHANNEL ON A BRIGHT SUNNY AND WARM DAY - PRETTY UNEVENTFUL RUN - SAW A FEW HARBOR PORPOISES NEAR PORT HARDY - HAD SUPER VISIBILITY ACROSS QUEEN CHARLOTTE STRAIT - SEA FLAT THE WHOLE WAY
1630 - TIED TO THE DOCK AT ALERT BAY - WALKED UP TO THE U'MISTA CULTURAL CENTER THEN TO TOWN TO PICK UP A FEW GROCERIES - ON THE WAY BACK WE STOPPED TO SAY A FEW WORDS TO A MAN AND LADIES CUTTING UP A BUNCH OF SALMON FOR CANNING ON THE "SNOW KING", A BIG PURSE SEINER, AND ENDED UP LUGGING A THIRTY POUNDER THE SKIPPER GAVE US BACK TO THE BOAT - IT'S A FRIENDLY CREW AROUND HERE!
0950 - PASSED CLOSE TO A POD OF SIX OR SEVEN ORCAS ("KILLER WHALES" OR "BLACKFISH") SOUTH OF PORT HARVEY OFF ROBSEN'S BIGHT - FIRST TIME I 'VE GOTTEN A REALLY CLOSE-UP LOOK AT THEM OUTSIDE OF AN AQUARIUM
1230 - PASSED PORT KELSEY - SEEING LOTS OF PLEASURE BOATS NOW FOR THE FIRST TIME SINCE WE LEFT KETCHIKAN
1530 - DOCKED AT BLIND CHANNEL - REALLY PLUSH FACILITIES HERE AND THERE MUST BE $10 MILLION WORTH OF CRUISERS ON THE TEN OR SO FLOATS - THEY CHARGE $0.50 PER FOOT FOR OVERNIGHT MOORAGE BUT THE PLACE IS SO WELL RUN AND PLEASENT IT SEEMS REASONABLE - IT'S MANAGED BY A GERMAN COUPLE WHO REALLY KNOW HOW TO DO THINGS RIGHT FOR THE BOATER - WE HAD DINNER IN THEIR RESTAURANT, THE "CEDAR POST" - THE SCHNITZLE(SP?) LOIS HAD WAS SUPURB!
AT DINNER WE MET AN OLD COUPLE, ED AND CLARE H?????,(GERMAN NAME) FROM BREMERTON WHO CAME OVER TO OUR TABLE FOR AN AFTER DINNER DRINK THEN INVITED US ON BOARD THEIR CLASSIC OLD CRIS CRAFT, "SWANEE" - THEY HAVE BEEN CRUISING NORTH FOR 20 YEARS
0830 - STARTED FISHING ABOVE BROWN BAY WAITING FOR THE SLACK AT SEYMORE NARROWS - TRIP DOWN WENT FASTER THAN EXPECTED - WE WERE PICKING UP ABOUT 3 KNOTS FROM THE FLOOD TIDE
1000 - NO LUCK ON THE FISHING AND TIME TO RUN THE NARROWS - GOT THROUGH AND FOUND ALL THE COMMERCIAL BOATS FISHING OFF RACE POINT SO WE DECIDED TO FISH A WHILE LONGER THERE - ONE OF THE TROLLERS SHOUTED OVER TO TELL US TO USE RED HOOCHIES SO WE FISHED FOR AN HOUR WITH NO SUCCESS WHILE WATCHING THE COMMERCIAL GUYS ALL AROUND US PULLING IN LINE AFTER LINE WITH SIX OR EIGHT FISH ON IT - ALMOST EVERY HOOK! - FRUSTRATING! - THE ONLY EXPLANATION I CAN THINK OF IS THAT THEY WERE A LOT DEEPER THAN WE CAN GO WITH OUR 24 OZ WEIGHTS
1130 - GAVE IT UP AND HEADED ON SOUTH - BUCKED THE EBB PAST CAMPBELL RIVER MAKING UP FOR THIS MORNING'S BOOST - OUT ON THE BIG GEORGIA STRAIT ON A WARM FLAT SUNDAY AFTERNOON - HUNDREDS OF SPORT FISHERMEN IN EVERY DIRECTION - WE WERE HEADING FOR COMAX BUT BY THE TIME WE GOT TO THE BAR WE DECIDED WE HADN'T LOST ANYTHING IN THAT BIG CITY SO KEPT GOING
1830 - ANCHORED IN TRIBUNE BAY ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF HORNBY ISLAND - NICE BIG BAY WITH GOOD BOTTOM AND ROOM FOR LOTS OF BOATS IN FRONT OF A LARGE PARK WITH A LONG SAND BEACH - IT'S OPEN TO THE SOUTHEAST BUT IS GREAT FOR THE SUMMER NORTHERLY WINDS OR NO WINDS LIKE TONIGHT
0830 - TRIED CONTACTING WINCHELSEA CONTROL WITH NO LUCK SO CALLED VANCOUVER COAST GUARD - THEY SAID AREA WHISKY-GOLF WASN'T ACTIVE BUT RECOVERY VESSELS WERE REQUESTING 3000 YDS CLEARANCE - ALSO TOLD US THAT WINCHELSEA MONITORS CHANNEL 10 WHICH WE LATER FOUND IS NOT TRUE - THEY DON'T NECESSARILY MONITOR ANYTHING!
1100 - SUCH A NICE DAY WE DECIDE TO GO AROUND THE EAST SIDE OF GABRIOLA ISLAND RATHER THAN THROUGH DODD NARROWS - RUNNING WITH THE 6-8 KNOT BREEZE AND A LOW FOLLOWING SEA ON GEORGIA WE ARE OUT ON THE DECK SUN BATHING WITH THE TEMPERATURE UP NEAR EIGHTY
1200 - HEAR A CALL FROM THE "SAINT JUDE" ON THE RADIO - AFTER A FEW TRYS WE MAKE CONTACT WITH VIRGIL - HE'S IN MONTEGUE HARBOR AT THE SOUTH END OF GABRIOLA TWENTY-FIVE MILES AWAY SO WE DECIDE TO JOIN HIM AND COMPARE NOTES ON OUR SUMMERS
1430 - THROUGH POLIER PASS ON ABOUT A THREE KNOT EBB - CAN SURE SEE THAT YOU WOULDN'T WANT TO DO IT ON A 9 KNOT TIDE! - LOTS OF FISHERMEN AROUND THE EDGES
1600 - MONTEGUE HARBOR - RAFTED TO VIGIL WHO WAS HANGING ON HIS HOOK, POURED DRINKS FROM THE LAST OF OUR CANADIAN VODKA, AND DRANK A TOAST TO A SUCCESSFUL SUMMER - VIRGIL IS ALONE WITH GRACE, HIS ENGLISH BULL TERRIER, ON THE "SAINT JUDE" - JUDY JUMPED SHIP IN HYDABURG ABOUT A MONTH AGO - I THINK HE WAS PRETTY GLAD TO HAVE SOME COMPANY
GREG AND ANITA HETTER, A COUPLE FROM LAS VEGAS WHOSE BOAT VIRGIL HAD RESCUED EARLIER, CAME OVER TO HIS BOAT FOR A DRINK AND SOME CONVERSATION - HE IS A PLASTIC SURGEON - THEY HAVE THEIR FIRST BOAT ON THEIR FIRST TRIP AND HAD NO IDEA HOW TO SET AN ANCHOR - THEIR BOAT DRIFTED INTO VIRGIL'S WHILE THEY WERE ON THE BEACH - THEY WERE EXCITED AND FULL OF QUESTIONS - NICE PEOPLE!
LOIS FIXED ROCK FISH AND SOME OYSTERS VIRGIL HAD PICKED WITH HER SUPER BATTER AND WE STUFFED OURSELVES WHILE BASKING IN THE WARM EVENING AIR - A GOOD WAY TO END AUGUST!
1200 - POD OF DALL'S PORPOISE JUST NORTH OF FLAT TOP ISLAND BUT ONLY ONE MADE A PASS AT US - I SUSPECT THEY ARE TIRED! - THERE ARE SO MANY BOATS OUT HERE WE HAVE TO THREAD OUR WAY THOUGH - EVEN RAN BY A PACK OF CANOES, FAR OUT IN BOUNDRY PASS!
1330 - INTO FRIDAY HARBOR - STOPPED AT THE CUSTOMS DOCK TO CHECK IN - ENTRY NUMBER 4776A - THEN WALKED UP TO THE OFFICE GREETING PEOPLE ALL THE WAY - KIND OF NICE TO SEE THE OLD CREW AGAIN! - RAY PUT US IN A SLIP NEAR WHERE WE WERE LAST WINTER (AND ALMOST AS HARD TO GET IN AND OUT OF) - ALMOST HAD A CATASTROPHY GETTING INTO IT BUT A NICE KID ON THE DOCK CAME ALONG JUST IN TIME TO HELP
WALKED UP TO THE AIRPORT - TRUCK STARTED RIGHT AWAY! - PICKED UP THE MAIL AND SPENT THE AFTERNOON ON IT - RAN INTO KARL LANG AND LADY ON THE DOCK AND WENT WITH THEM TO THE ELECTRIC COMPANY FOR DINNER - NICE EASY DAY TO END THE CRUISING SUMMER!
AT THE DOCK - (GMC 3024.0 ONAN 2237.9 HRO 562.7) - 736 HOURS ON THE
GMC, 260 ON THE ONAN, AND 80 ON THE HRO SINCE WE LEFT FRIDAY HARBOR ON APRIL 30TH - WE BURNED A TOTAL OF 1747 GALLONS OF FUEL FOR AN OVERALL FIGURE OF 2.77 GALLONS PER
GMC HOUR - I FIGURE WE RAN A LITTLE OVER 4000 MILES IN FOUR MONTHS AND WITH A MINIMUM OF MECHANICAL TROUBLE - "SEA RAVEN" IS A PRETTY GOOD SHIP!
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