1000 - ON OUR WAY RUNNING NORTH EAST ACROSS FREDERICK SOUND TOWARD THOMAS BAY
1105 - I'M LOOKING FOR THE FISHING FLEET WHEN I SEE A VERY STRANGLY SHAPED VESSEL IN THE DISTANCE - IT WAS ALL WHITE WITH A PECULIAR SUPERSTRUCTURE - TOOK A FEW MINUTES TO REALIZE WE HAD SEEN OUR FIRST ICEBERG!
1135 - STOPPED IN THE MOUTH OF THOMAS BAY TO JIG FOR HALIBUT - SCOTT HAMILTON HAD TOLD US THAT THIS WAS THE HOT SPOT - FISHED FOR ONLY ABOUT 1/2 HOUR WHEN A SQUALL HIT US WITH LOTS OF COLD RAIN AND WIND SO I GAVE UP WITHOUT A BITE - DON'T KNOW WHAT I WOULD HAVE DONE WITH A 344 LB HALIBUT ANYWAY
1430 - PASSED CAPE FANSHAW - GOOD MANY OF THE FISHING FLEET HERE - FROM WHAT WE CAN PICK UP ON THE RADIO MOST ARE DISAPPOINTED AT THEIR CATCH SO FAR - ONLY HEARD ONE GUY SAY HE HAD, "FOUND THE FISH" AND HAD A REALLY GOOD SET
1520 - I'M WATCHING ONE OF THE FISHING BOATS OFF BROTHERS ISLAND WHEN A GEYSER ERUPTS BETWEEN US - OUR FIRST SIGHTING OF A BIG WHALE THIS TRIP! - DIDN'T GET VERY CLOSE BUT THESE WERE HUMPBACKS BY THEIR ACTIONS - TWO OR THREE - THEY WOULD BLOW SIX OR EIGHT TIMES SHOWING THEIR DORSAL EACH TIME THEY SURFACED THEN SOUND, LIFTING THEIR HUGE FLUKES HIGH IN THE AIR AS THEY DOVE
1540 - VISIT FROM A GROUP OF PORPOISES - FIRST WE'VE SEEN FOR A FEW DAYS - SEEMED LIKE A VISIT FROM OLD FRIENDS
1715 - ANCHORED IN A LITTLE COVE JUST INSIDE GAMBIER BAY
- RAN UP SPENCER WATCHING ALL THE FISHING BOATS IN THEIR LAST EFFORT BEFORE THE CLOSURE AT NOON - DIDN'T EVER MANAGE TO CATCH ONE IN THE ACT OF HAULING FISH ABOARD
1030 - LOIS SPOTS OUR FIRST "MARKER" WHICH TURNED OUT TO BE ICE AT THE ENTRANCE TO HOLKHAM BAY - THEN AS WE TURN INTO THE BAY LOOKING FOR THE LIGHT ON WOODS SPIT, A BIG, BEAUTIFUL, TURQUOISE BLUE BERG IS WAITING FOR US - WE HEAD OVER TO GET A BETTER LOOK AND SPOT ANOTHER BOAT FISHING IN THE SWIRLS BY HARBOR ISLAND - IT'S THE "FRONTIER QUEEN" RUN BY CHARLEY SOMEBODY FROM FRIDAY HARBOR
1100 - NOT MUCH NEED TO GO OUT OF OUR WAY TO STARE AT AN ICEBERG - SOON, AS WE MAKE OUR WAY DOWN ENDICOTT ARM, WE ARE DODGING THEM AND LOIS IS GETTING MORE AND MORE NERVOUS - SOME ARE WHITE, SOME TURQUOISE, SOME A SUPER BABY-BLUE, SOME ALMOST BLACK WITH ROCKS AND GRAVEL EMBEDDED IN THEM
1230 - FORD'S TERROR - A NARROW INLET WITH HIGHLY RECOMMENDED SCENERY- I FIGURED WE MIGHT WANT TO SPEND THE NIGHT HERE SO I WANTED TO SEE THE VERY NARROW ENTRANCE AT LOW TIDE - GLAD I DID - THERE ARE ROCK RIDGES GUARDING BOTH SIDES OF THE ENTRANCE (NOT TO MENTION THE BERGS EVERYWHERE) - THE WAY TO APPROACH IT IS TO GO DIRECTLY TO THE WATERFALL THEN TURN AND RUN WESTERLY STRAIGHT TOWARD A ROCK OUTCROPPING ON THE TREE-COVERED SLOPE JUST NORTH OF THE CHANNEL - THAT WAY YOU AVOID THE RIDGES BOTH TO THE SOUTH AND NORTH OF THE ENTRANCE
1500 - DAWES GLACIER - OR AT ABOUT 1/2 MILE FROM IT - WE HAD TO DO A LITTLE ICE PUSHING TO GET THIS CLOSE - NOT LIKE THE GLACIERS ON MOUNT RAINIER - THEY KIND OF PUCHIE OUT AND THEN GET SOFT AND ROUNDED ON THE FRONT AS THEY ADVANCE - THIS THING LOOKS MORE LIKE THE GRANITE IN YOSEMITE - HUGE, VERTICAL CRYSTALS SLABBING OFF INTO THE WATER - WE ONLY SAW ONE BERG THAT LOOKED LIKE THE STUFF ON THE FACE OF THE GLACIER WITH SHARP EDGES AND LOOKING VERY COLD - MOST WERE SOFTENED BY MELTING
| - LOTS OF SEALS AND A FEW EAGLES PERCHED ON THE BERGS - SAW SEVERAL MAMA SEALS WITH LITTLE ONES ON THE ICE - THEY WOULD GET INTO THE WATER QUICKLY WHEN WE CAME ALONG - THE LONERS JUST LAID THERE AND WATCHED US WATCHING THEM |
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1610 - MOUNTAIN GOAT CLIMBING AN IMPOSSIBLE ROCK RIDGE
1630 - BACK AT FORD'S TERROR ONLY TO FIND A POWER BOAT, THE "CLOUD IX", AND TWO SAIL BOATS WAITING FOR HIGH SLACK - DECIDED TO GO ON TO TRACY AND CATCH THE TERROR NEXT TIME
1930 - ANCHORED IN AN UN-NAMED COVE JUST NORTH OF THE RANGE INTO TRACY ARM - GOOD SPOT WITH THE NORTH WINDS WE ARE HAVING
2025 - LOIS JUST IN THE MIDDLE OF FIXING ONE OF HER SUPER FISH DINNERS AND HERE COMES THE "CUNARD PRINCESS" THROWING A SUPER WAKE - WOULDN'T WANT TO BE IN THIS SPOT IN A SOUTHEAST BLOW!
0745 - UP ANCHOR AND OFF UP TRACY ARM - ABSOLUTELY CLOUDLESS SKY THIS MORNING - FIRST IN ABOUT A WEEK
1030 - HEAD OF TRACY - AFTER ENDICOTT YESTERDAY TRACY SEEMED ALMOST FREE OF ICE - BERGS SCATTERED HERE AND THERE BUT NONE OF THE CONTINUOUS DODGING UNTIL WE GOT RIGHT TO THE HEAD OF THE FJIORD AND THE GLACIERS - WE COULD GET A LOT CLOSER, PARTICULARLY TO NORTH SAWYER - GOT DOWN THE METZELER AND FOOLED AROUND TAKING PICTURES OF THE SEA RAVEN IN FRONT OF THE GLACIER AND ICEBERGS - GOT OUT THE ICE PICK AND LOADED UP OUR AFT DECK COOLER WITH GLACIER ICE AND BEER - LOIS IS A LOT MORE COMFORTABLE TODAY - SHE IS LEARNING THAT ICEBERGS DON'T JUMP AT YOU
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1230 - WORKING OUR WAY BACK DOWN THE INLET - I'VE USED UP ALL THE WORDS TO DESCRIBE IT - THE MAGNIFICENT IS BECOMING ROUTINE - STOPPED SEVERAL TIMES NEXT TO BIG BLUE BERGS - AND EXPLORED A PRETTY SAND BEACH NEXT TO AN INTERESTING HALF HIDDEN WATERFALL IN THE ROCK |
1630 - BACK AT OUR ANCHORAGE OF LAST NIGHT - WENT OVER TO THE BEACH AND WALKED ALONG A LONG MEADOW WITH TWO BABBLING BROOKS IN IT - EVEN FOUND BEAR TRACKS IN THE SAND - LITTLE GUY!
0910 - SIGHTED WHALES BLOWING NEAR MIDWAY ISLANDS - FROM THE BOOKS DECRIPTION I WOULD GUESS THEY WERE MINKE - SMALL INCONSPICUOUS BLOW, NOT MUCH FIN ABOVE THE WATER
1015 - MORE WHALES - COULDN'T GET CLOSE ENOUGH TO GET A PICTURE
1130 - WIND PICKING UP FROM BEHIND US - 20 TO 30 KNOTS - BY THE TIME WE ROUNDED POINT ARDEN WE HAD SOME 3-4 FOOT SEAS BEHIND US
1300 - STARTED CHECKING FOR A PLACE IN JUNEAU - HARBOR MASTER SAID HE THOUGHT THINGS WERE PRETTY FULL & COULDN'T HELP - WIND WAS BLOWING SO HARD I DIDN'T FEEL COMFORTABLE RAFTING IN THE FEW TRANSIENT SLIPS WE FOUND AT HARRIS - AURORA HAS NO TRANSIENT MOORAGE AND NO VACANT SLIPS - TRANSIENT AREA AT DOUGLAS WAS FULL
1430 - DECIDED TO BAG IT AND FIND ANCHORAGE - NOTHING BUT VERY DEEP ANCHORAGE FOR CRUISE SHIPS IN JUNEAU SO WE HEADED OUT THE GASINEAU CHANNEL INTO THE CHOP WITH LOTS OF WIND AND WAVES SPLASHING OVER THE WINDSHIELD - LOIS ABOUT HAD A TIZZY!
1630 - ANCHORED IN ADMIRALTY COVE, A PRETTY COVE ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF STEPHENS PASSAGE DIRECTLY ACROSS DOUGLAS ISLAND FROM JUNEAU - BOOK SAYS IT HAS A GOOD MUD BOTTOM AND WE ARE PRETTY WELL PROTECTED FROM THE SOUTH AND EAST
0910 - DANG NEAR GOT RAMMED HEAD ON BY A WHALE - THAT IS QUITE A SIGHT TO SEE SOMETHING SORT OF LIKE A SUBMARINE APPEAR ON THE SURFACE DIRECTLY AHEAD OF YOU - BY THE TIME WE GOT SLOWED DOWN HE WAS GONE
1000 - AUKE BAY - THIS IS THE BEST APPROACH TO JUNEAU! A SPECTACULAR VIEW OF THE MENDENHALL GLACIER AS WE ROUND THE POINT - SURE IS PRETTY COUNTRY EVEN ON A NOT-SO-GOOD DAY
- SAME STORY HERE AS IN JUNEAU ON THE PUBLIC DOCKS - ONLY A FEW TRANSIENT SPOTS AND ALL FILLED WITH BOATS RAFTED SEVERAL DEEP - WE PULLED INTO A PLACE AT THE DE HART MARINA (OVER THE PROTESTS OF THE GAS BOY) AND TALKED THE OWNER INTO LETTING US STAY - NO POWER, NO GARBAGE DISPOSAL, NO OIL DUMP, BUT AT LEAST A SPOT WE CAN WALK TO SHORE FROM
- CALLED JEFF, LOIS' NEPHEW, TO LET THEM KNOW WE ARE IN TOWN THEN CHANGED THE OIL ON THE
GMC AND GEAR - WENT PRETTY WELL WITH MY NEW OIL CHANGE PAN UNTIL I FORGOT HOW FAST THE GEAR DUMPS - SPENT SOME TIME MOPPING UP WITH PAPER TOWELS - ADDED 15 QTS TO
GMC AND 6 QTS TO GEAR
1500 - KAREN, JEFF'S WIFE, SHOWS UP AND WE VISIT FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS BEFORE GOING BACK TO THEIR PLACE BY WAY OF THE MENDENHALL GLACIER - SHE AND JEFF SENT US HOME WITH THEIR TRUCK, SOME KING SALMON, AND A DATE FOR TOMORROW TO SEE ONE OF KARENS'S CRUISE SHIPS - SHE WORKS FOR "WINGS OF ALASKA" TAKING CRUISE SHIP PASSENGERS FOR FLOAT PLANE RIDES OVER THE GLACIER
| - HAD A NEAT DAY WITH THE HANSEN CREW - KAREN ARRANGED FOR US TO GO OUT TO THE "ROTTERDAM" CRUISE SHIP AND TAKE ONE OF THE WINGS OF ALASKA FLIGHTS OVER TAKU GLACIER AND THE ICE FIELD THAT FEEDS MOST OF THE GLACIERS AROUND HERE - WE THEN TOURED THE SHIP TO SEE HOW THE OTHER HALF LIVE - THEY MUST SPEND MOST OF THEIR TIME PARTYING AND EATING - SHE HAD AN INDONESIAN CREW WITH DUTCH OFFICERS AND WAS NOTHING IF NOT PLUSH - NICE BUT ON OUR BOAT I DON'T HAVE TO WEAR A JACKET TO DINNER | 
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- WENT BACK TO OUR PLACE ABOUT 3:00 AND THE TOM HANSEN CREW SHOWED UP - HAD A NICE VISIT AND CAUGHT SOME SAND DABS OFF THE DOCK FOR THE THREE KIDS
- WENT TO DINNER AT "GRANDMA'S" - EDIBLE BUT I WOULDN'T RECOMMEND IT UNLESS YOU'RE VERY HUNGRY
- ALONG ABOUT TWO O'CLOCK THE SUN STARTED TO COME OUT SO I CHECKED IN AT THE HANSENS - SURE ENOUGH JEFF HAD COME HOME AND WAS WORKING ON THE ROOF SO WE WENT BACK TO THEIR PLACE AND I HELPED ROOF WHILE KAREN & LOIS FIXED UP A SUPER SALMON DINNER - AFTER DINNER WE ALL WENT OUT TO THE BOAT IN AUKE BAY SO JEFF COULD SEE OUR HOME - ALL IN ALL A VERY NICE DAY!
0800 - PICKED UP THE KIDS AT HANSEN'S & BROUGHT THEM BACK TO THE BOAT FOR BREAKFAST - TIM (5), THE YOUNGEST, BROKE HIS LEG LAST SATURDAY FALLING OFF THE MONKEY BARS SO HE IS ON CRUTCHES WITH A BIG CAST - HE STILL MANAGES TO GET AROUND EVEN ON THE BOAT - AFTER BREAKFAST WE FISHED FOR LITTLE HALIBUT FOR A COUPLE OF HOURS UNTIL JERRY HILL CAME BY - TALKED WITH HIM A WHILE - HE IS TEACHING BOTH IVORY CARVING AND WAX CARVING CLASSES - HE HAS ALSO ARRANGED FOR A CALIFORNIA GROUP TO DO THE CASTING AND PRELIMINARY FINISHING OF HIS SMALL PIECES SO HE CAN SPEND MORE TIME ON DESIGN - HE TOLD US TERRY WILLIAMS IS IN SKAGWAY
- IN THE PM THE KIDS TOOK UPS TO MCDONALDS AND THE STATE MUSEUM THEN BACK TO THE HANSEN HOUSE FOR SOME BADMITTEN AND BASEBALL - I HAD MORE EXERCISE THAN I'VE HAD FOR WEEKS!
- WE BOUGHT GROCERIES AND THEN KAREN, HER MOTHER, AND THE KIDS TOOK US BACK TO THE BOAT
1420 - DEPARTED AUKE BAY - WANT TO GET IN A FEW HOURS BOTH TO CUT DOWN THE RUN TO SKAGWAY AND TO GET OUR BATTERIES CHARGED UP - NO POWER ON THE DOCK AT AUKE BAY AND WE WEREN'T RUNNING THE GENERATOR VERY MUCH
1700 - RUNNING THROUGH FAVORITE PASSAGE THE PORPOISES ARE WITH US AGAIN - LOTS OF THEM - THEY SEEM TO BE HAVING SO MUCH FUN IT MAKES YOU FEEL GOOD - LIKE HAVING A BUNCH OF KIDS AROUND!
1800 - SNUCK THROUGH THE ENTRANCE TO ECHO COVE ON THE SOUTH SHORE OF BERNERS BAY - IT'S A VERY NARROW UNMARKED CHANNEL - AT ONE POINT WE WERE UNDER 10 FEET DEEP (WE DRAW 7 1/2) - INSIDE IT'S A NICE WIDE COVE WITH GOOD PROTECTION FROM SEAS IN ALL DIRECTIONS - GOT A -3.6 TIDE IN THE MORNING - WE MAY HAVE TO WAIT TO GET OUT!
0900 - EITHER MY CALCULATIONS OR THE CHARTS ARE WRONG - WE ARE AGROUND - EVEN WITH LOIS ON THE BOW STEERING WE COULDN'T FIND A CHANNEL DEEPER THAN 6 FEET - WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM THE ENGINE THE SWIFT MOVING CURRENT SWINGS US AROUND AND IT'S BACK TO THE COVE TO WAIT FOR THE TIDE TO COME IN
1045 - TRIED AGAIN - THIS TIME SUCCESSFULLY WITH THE 11 FT MINIMUM I THOUGHT WE WOULD HAVE THE FIRST TIME - HAD A NICE RUN UP LYNN CANAL TO HAINES - THE 20 KNOT WINDS THE WEATHERMAN HAS BEEN FORCASTING DIDN'T SHOW UP UNTIL WE WERE DOCKED AND THE SCENERY, AS USUAL, WAS SUPERB!
1615 - DOCKED AT HAINES WITH THE ASSISTANCE OF FRED MC INTIRE, A YOUNG FISHERMAN WHO LIVES HERE - HE AND HIS WIFE FISH FROM THE "NIKKA" WITH THEIR 2 AND 4 YEAR OLDS ON BOARD - HE ACCEPTED OUR INVITATION TO COME ABOARD AND POINTED OUT SOME GOOD ANCHORAGE AND FISHING SPOTS OVER NEAR SITKA - LATER WE WALKED UP THRU TOWN, PEERED AT SOME OF THE SHOPS, RENTED A MOVIE FOR THE EVENING, AND HAD A DRINK AT THE HARBOR BAR - WIND BLOWING HARD NOW - WE ROCKED AND ROLLED ALL NIGHT (IF YOU CAN CALL TWILIGHT NIGHT - IT NEVER GETS DARK ANY MORE)
- RANDY SMITH WOKE ME UP POUNDING ON THE DOOR SO WE HAD A BEER AND CHATTED FOR A WHILE - HE'S DOING SOME WORK ON THE NEW BANK BUILDING
- PRETTY NICE DAY EVEN IF THE SUN DIDN'T SPEND A WHOLE LOT OF TIME SHINING
0930 - HEADED FOR SKAGWAY IN A PRETTY GOOD BREEZE, 20 KNOTS
1130 - HERE WE ARE! - NICE BIG BOAT HARBOR AT SKAGWAY AND ALMOST EMPTY - NO FISHING BOATS!
- WALKED TO TOWN AND MADE CONTACT WITH TERRY AT THE DAVE PLEASENT GALLERY - SET UP A DATE FOR DINNER THEN WALKED THE LENGTH OF BROADWAY (SIX BLOCKS) POKING INTO ALL THE SHOPS - SKAGWAY, OR SKAQUA, WAS LIVING UP TO IT'S NAME WHICH IN INDIAN MEANS "WINDY PLACE", WITH SOME NICE GUSTY 20-30 KNOT WINDS - IT APPEARS TO BE STRICTLY A TOURIST ECONOMY - NO FISHING, NO LUMBER, NO MINING - IT'S LIVING OFF THE TOUR BOATS - THE "SUN PRINCESS" AND THE "GLACIER EXPLORER" WERE HERE WHEN WE CAME - THEY BOTH LEFT BEFORE THE DAY WAS OUT AND IN CAME THE "FAIRWEATHER" AND THE "
- THE ROCKS ABOVE THE CRUISE SHIP WHARF ARE PAINTED WITH SOME PRETTY FANCY GRAFFITI GIVING CRUISE SHIPS' NAMES, LOGOS, TOGETHER WITH THEIR CAPTAIN'S NAME - ONE CAPTAIN J. G. CLARK WAS SHOWN ON ABOUT SEVEN DIFFERENT SHIPS FROM 1968 TO 1986 AND HAD HIS AUGUST 8, 1986 RETIREMENT NOTED ON A PROMINENT ROCK
- WENT BACK TO THE GALLERY TO MEET TERRY AT 6:00 - HE HAD INVITED A FRIEND, SHEILA FRAUENHOLTZ, TO JOIN US FOR DINNER - SHE IS A TRAVEL AGENT FOR HOLLAND LINES - HAD A VERY GOOD DINNER AT "IRENES" - DURING DINNER WE GOT TO TALKING ABOUT BEARS AND SHIELA TOLD US A STORY ABOUT COMING BACK TO A DEAR CARCASS SHE AND A FRIEND HAD KILLED AND FINDING IT MAULED AND BEAR TRACKS ALL AROUND IT - HER FRIEND SOLVED THE PROBLEM BY YELLING, "BEAR SOUP! BEAR SOUP!" ALL THE WAY UP THE TRAIL - LOIS LOVED THAT STORY! - WE THEN WENT OUT TO "TENT CITY", A TOURIST VERSION OF THE TENT CITY BUILT HERE DURING THE GOLD RUSH IN 1897 - SAW THE BIGGEST MALAMUTE I'VE EVER SEEN LIVING OUT THERE WITH THOR, THE OPERATOR
- ALSO THE "LARGEST BEDPAN COLLECTION IN THE WORLD"
- BACK TO THE BOAT FOR AN AFTER DINNER DRINK AND THEN TO THE "RED ONION" FOR SOME SATURDAY NIGHT MUSIC - MOSTLY LOCALS IN THE BAR AND A BAND PLAYING SOME GREAT "BILL HALEY" STYLE MUSIC SO LOUDLY THAT LOIS AND I COULD ONLY TAKE ABOUT A HALF HOUR OF IT BEFORE BAILING OUT - WALKED HOME AT 11:30 PM WHILE IT WAS STILL LIGHT!
- TERRY PICKED US UP AT THE BOAT ABOUT 2:00 AND TOOK US FOR A DRIVE ACROSS WHITE PASS TO CARCROSS IN THE YUKON - DON'T THINK I HAVE EVER SEEN SUCH CONTRASTS IN TERRAIN AND VEGETATION AS WE DID ON THIS TRIP - THE AREA TERRY CALLED TORMENTED VALLEY WAS PARTICULARLY INTERESTING WITH HUNDREDS OF LITTLE LAKES SCATTERED OVER A FAIRLY FLAT VALLEY OF ICE CARVED ROCK WITH NOTHING BUT LITTLE, WINDBLOWN SRUB TREES GROWING - TERRY SAID THEY FILMED THE MOVIE "NEVER CRY WOLF" THERE - CARCROSS IS A TINY TOWN OF TINY LOG HOUSES BUILT TO WITHSTAND THE RIGORS OF WHAT MUST BE A COLD, COLD WINTER - SOMEDAY IT MIGHT BE A PRIME TOURIST ATTRACTION
- GOT BACK FROM CARCROSS ABOUT 6:00 AND THEN DROVE OUT TO DYEA, THE STAGING LOCATION FOR WOULD-BE MINERS GOING OVER CHILKOOT PASS - UNLIKE SKAGWAY, DYEA IS NOW DESERTED WITH NOTHING BUT THE REMAINS OF AN OLD WHARF TO INDICATE THAT IT WAS ONCE A TOWN OF 10,000 PEOPLE - IT WAS PROBABLY THE RAILROAD THAT KEPT SKAGWAY ALIVE ALL THE YEARS UNTIL THE CRUISE BOATS CAME
| - ALL THAT TOOK MOST OF THE MORNING - ALSO MADE USE OF THE GOOD SKAGWAY FLOAT TO DUMP ALL OUR ANCHOR CHAIN AND PUT IN A CUTTABLE BITTER END - JUST IN CASE WE SHOULD EVER WANT TO LET GO OF OUR ANCHOR | 
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- 'BOUT 3:00 O'CLOCK DECIDED WE'D HAD ENOUGH MAINTENANCE WORK FOR THE DAY SO GOT ON OUR BIKES & WENT TO TOWN AGAIN - CHECKED OUT THE LITTLE MUSEUM, TALKED AGAIN WITH SHIELA AND TERRY, THEN WENT TO THE GILLIAN CAMPBELL SHOW AT THE KLONDIKE HOTEL LOUNGE - NOT VERY CROWDED - ALL OF THE CRUISE BOATS LEFT ABOUT 5:00 PM SO WE ONLY HAD TO SHARE THE TOWN WITH THE RV PEOPLE AND THE OVERNIGHTERS ON THE "FAIRWEATHER" - ALL IN ALL A PRETTY NICE DAY IN SPITE OF THE FACT THAT I GOT MY FINGERNAILS DIRTY
0845 - BREAKFAST OVER AND CASTING OFF - GOOFED AND LET THE BOW SWING THE WRONG WAY IN THE WIND AND HAD A FEW ANXIOUS MOMENTS WHILE WE GOT STRAIGHTED OUT - WAS GLAD THE HARBOR WAS ALMOST EMPTY ALTHOUGH I MIGHT HAVE BEEN MORE CAREFUL IF THERE HAD BEEN A BUNCH OF OTHER BOATS TO WATCH OUT FOR
1100 - DOCKED AT HAINES - PRETTY GOOD WIND COMING DOWN THE CHANNEL ALTHOUGH THE SEA NEVER GOT MORE THAN 2-3 FT - LOIS WANTED TO STAY AT HAINES SO WE PAID OUR FEE AND WENT WALKING AROUND TOWN - ANOTHER SKOOKUM 53, THE "SKOOKUMCHUCK" IS MOORED NEXT TO RANDY'S "CAPELLA" - NOBODY AROUND BUT IT IS KETCH RIGGED WITH FISH GEAR - HELPED A PACKER, THE "MC CLURE BAY", DOCK NEXT TO US AND LEARNED A LITTLE MORE ABOUT HANDLING A SINGLE SCREW - HE IS PACKING FOR PELICAN SEAFOODS AND WILL BE IN LYNN CANAL ALL SUMMER
- RIGGED UP A TEMPORARY COOLING SETUP FOR JENNIE BY RUNNING A HOSE FROM THE WASHDOWN PUMP TO HER HEAT EXCHANGER - WORKS REALLY WELL! SHE HAS MORE WATER THAN WHEN HER OWN PUMP IS RUNNING
0640 - PASSED THE EXPLORER STARSHIP HEADED FOR SKAGWAY
0830 - RUNNING IN LIGHT RAIN BUT WITH LITTLE WIND - WENT BEHIND SULLIVAN ISLAND TO LOOK AT ANCHORAGES THERE - THEY LOOK PRETTY GOOD - ANOTHER SAILBOAT WITHOUT A SAIL (MIGHT HAVE BEEN A SKOOKUM 47) THE "DUTCH GIRL" FROM JUNEAU WAS ANCHORED IN THE SW BIGHT WITH A CAMP ON THE BEACH
0940 - RESPONDED TO A CALL FROM THE "CELEBRATION", A 26 FT PLANING HULL CRUISER BOUND FOR GLACIER BAY WANTING TO KNOW SEA CONDITIONS - STILL ABOUT 1 FT SEAS
1005 - HRO ON
1100 - SEAS PICKING UP NOW - ABOUT 3 FT - STILL NO WIND OVER ABOUT 15 KNOTS - GOT A BIT BOUNCY GOING FROM ST. JOHN BAY OVER TO LINCOLN ISLAND AND THEN AGAIN CROSSING SAGINAW PASSAGE - MANAGED TO TOSS ONE OF MY HOOK LINES THAT WERE HANGING ON THE BOW PULPIT OVERBOARD - LOIS FUSSED A LOT BUT SHE IS GETTING LOTS BETTER - THE BOAT COMES DOWN ON A WAVE WITH A NICE SOFT SQUISH BUT IT MAKES A BIG SPLASH WHICH COMES BACK AND COVERS THE WINDOWS AND LOOKS EXCITING
1400 - CALLED GIRL FRIDAY ON THE RADIO AND ASKED HER TO SEND OUR NEXT MAIL TO ELFIN COVE 99825
1445 - FUNTER BAY - NICE PLACE BUT A MYSTERY - THERE IS A 150 FT STATE DOCK UNCONNECTED TO SHORE WHICH HAS FOUR BOATS TIED TO IT AND NO EVIDENCE OF ANYONE ANYWHERE - ALSO AN INFLATABLE, A COVERED CANOE, AND AN OUTBOARD SKIFF TIED TO BUOYS AROUND THE BAY, AGAIN WITH NO VISIBLE MEANS OF GETTING TO THEM - MUST BE A FISHERMAN'S FERRY AROUND HERE SOMEWHERE
1730 - CRANKED UP OLD JENNY SO LOIS COULD COOK DINNER - SHE WAS HARD TO START, KIND OF WEAK, AND PUT OUT WHITE SMOKE - TOOK ME A WHILE TO REALIZE THAT I HAD OUTSMARTED MY SELF ON MY QUICK FIX - I LEFT THE WASHDOWN PUMP ON WHILE WE WERE RUNNING TODAY WHICH DUMPED SALT WATER IN JENNY'S EXHAUST MANIFOLD! I 'LL HAVE TO CALL FREMONT TOMORROW AND SEE WHAT THEY THINK I MAY HAVE DONE TO HER INNARDS - DAMN!
0950 - WIND SEEMED TO BE DOWN PRETTY WELL SO WE PUT DOWN THE STABIES (THATS WHAT THE FISHERMEN CALL OUR FLOPPER STOPPERS) AND HEADED OUT TOWARD ICY STRAIGHT - WIND WAS ABOUT 30 KNOTS FROM THE SOUTH AND UP CHATTAM SO THE SEAS WERE RUNNING 4-5 FEET - WE WERE RIDING WELL BUT LOIS STILL FUSSES ABOUT ANYTHING OVER TWO FEET - SHE JUST CALMS DOWN QUICKER THESE DAYS
1200 - GETTING IN THE LEE OF CHICHAGOF NOW AND ABLE TO TURN DOWN WIND - WE'RE RELAXING AND LETTING GEORGE DO THE DRIVING WHEN, IN ONE OF MY NORMAL ENGINE ROOM CHECKS, I FIND JIMMY'S GENERATOR IS BOUNCING AROUND - THE BRACKET THAT HOLDS IT ON THE ENGINE BLOCK IS BROKEN (THAT IS THE THIRD TIME SINCE WE BOUGHT THE BOAT) - WE SHUT DOWN WHILE I TAKE THE BELT OFF TO KEEP IT FROM SHAKING THINGS APART - THAT'S THREE! I HOPE THAT WILL DO THE THINGS THAT ARE DUE TO BREAK FOR A WHILE!
1400 - DOCKED AT HOONAH - VERY NICE FACILITY - I WALK UP AND FIND THE HARBORMASTER AND GIVE HIM THE OVERNIGHT FEE, $2.00 (I THINK THAT IS THE LOWEST WE'VE EVER PAID) - HOONAH IS DIFFERENT THAN ANYWHERE ELSE WE'VE BEEN - A FRIENDLY FISHERMAN NAMED ED BERGEROM ON THE "CAROL L" WARNS US THAT IT IS A "BOOT TRIP" UP TOWN SO ON WITH OUR RUBBER BOOTS AND OFF TO THE POST OFFICE
HOONAH'S STREETS ARE PAVED WITH SLICK MUD, THERE ARE NO SIDEWALKS, AND MOST OF THE STORE FRONTS HAVEN'T SEEN PAINT FOR YEARS - THE BANK IS IN A BUILDING OF THE KIND YOU USUALLY SEE ABANDONED IN LITTLE OLD FARM TOWNS, BUT THE PLACE IS BUSTLING WITH YOUNG PEOPLE - MUST BE THE FISHING AND TRIBAL TIES THAT KEEP THEM HERE
FIRST PERSON WE MET IN TOWN WAS DORIS, THE WINGS OF ALASKA REP, A PRETTY TLINGIT GIRL WITH STRIKING BLUE EYES - CALLED KAREN HANSEN, PICKED UP THE MAIL, AND WADED HOME - I HAD JUST GOTTEN WELL INTO MY AFTERNOON NAP WHEN A KNOCK ON THE DOOR ANNOUNCED DORIS WITH OUR SAIL AND WATER PUMP FROM JUNEAU - COULDN'T HAVE BEEN MORE THAN TWO HOURS - THAT'S REAL SERVICE, WINGS!
I DECIDED TO GIVE JENNY ONE MORE TRY BEFORE CALLING SEATTLE SO CRANKED HER UP FOR DINNER - AFTER ABOUT FIVE MINUTES OF SMOKING AND FUSSING SHE SETTLED DOWN TO A NICE STEADY CLEAN BURNING RUN - I'M BECOMING OPTIMISTIC THAT SHE WILL SERVIVE HER NINE HOUR SALTWATER ENEMA WITH NO PERMANENT DAMAGE - I'LL CHANGE HER OIL ONCE MORE IN THE MORNING
AFTER DINNER WE WALKED UP TOWN AGAIN AND HAD A BEER AT THE KOOTEEYA BAR - EVERYONE WE MEET IS FRIENDLY AND HELPFUL - ALL WAITING FOR THE BIG OPENING OF TROLLING SEASON TOMORROW - MET ONE GUY WHO SWEARS THE ONLY WAY TO GET KINGS IS WITH A #5 TOM MACK WITH A CHARTRUSE STRIPE ON WHITE - CALLED NAN THEN HEADED HOME - WEATHERMAN SAYS RAIN TOMORROW!
- RAINED ALMOST ALL DAY BUT THE WIND WAS WAY DOWN
- CALLED DICK AND TRIED TO CALL KAREN AND HOWARD BUT NOT HOME
- 0730 DECIDED TO DO A LITTLE FISHING WHILE WE WAITED FOR THE CHEVRON DOCK TO OPEN SO WE COULD BUY A CASE OF OIL - CAUGHT ONE NICE LITTLE KING AND ONE WALLEYED POLLACK ON THE GREEN HOOCHIE
0930 - PICKED UP A CASE OF OIL AND SOME CHARTS FROM RON AT HOONAH SEAFOODS CHEVRON DOCK - TRIED OUR LUCK AGAIN ON THE WAY OUT OF PORT FREDERICK AND GOT A BEAUTIFUL EIGHT POUND KING ON THE DOWN RIGGER AND A RED HOOCHIE - I'M NOT SURE IT MAKES MUCH DIFFERENCE WHAT YOU PUT BEHIND THE FLASHER!
1100 - QUIT FISHING AND RAN OVER TO EXCURSION INLET - (CALLED THE PARK SERVICE AT BARTLETT COVE ON THE WAY AND CONFIRMED OUR RESERVATION FOR TOMORROW) - THERE IS A BIG CANNERY IN EXCURSION INLET AND A TOWN OF ABOUT 350 PEOPLE DURING THE SEASON - ROADS, HOUSING INCLUDING SOME FAIRLY NICE SUMMER TYPE PLACES, A SMALL AIRPORT, AND A WELL STOCKED GENERAL MERCANTILE
1400 - LEFT EXCURSION INLET AND HEADED FOR GUSTAVES THROUGH ICY PASSAGE WHICH TODAY WAS ANYTHING BUT ICY - SAW SEVERAL WHALES ON THE WAY - I HAVEN'T BEEN MENTIONING WHALES BECAUSE WE HAVE SEEN THEM EVERYWHERE WE HAVE GONE SINCE WE LEFT PETERSBURG
1600 - DOCKED AT GUSTAVES PIER - WHOW! REAL FAST CURRENT - TOOK ME TWO PASSES TO HIT THE DOCK - THE FLOAT IS ON THE END OF A PIER ABOUT 1/2 MILE LONG EXTENDING OUT INTO ICY STRAIT - NO PROTECTION FROM ANY DIRECTION BUT WE WANTED TO SEE GUSTAVES AND THE WIND WAS CALM SO WE DOCKED - LOTS OF SPORT FISHERMEN ON THE DOCK WHO WEREN'T TOO HAPPY WITH OUR BEING THERE INTERFERING WITH THEIR COMING AND GOING IN THEIR SMALL BOATS - MUST HAVE BEEN GOOD FISHING TODAY - WE SAW A DOZEN BIG (50-100 LB) HALIBUT!
- WALKED UP THE PIER AND DOWN THE ROAD TOWARD GUSTAVES AMID FIELDS OF WILD FLOWERS IN BLUE, RED AND PURPLE - ABOUT A MILE DOWN THE ROAD WE SAW A SIGN OF THE PLACE DAVE TATOM TOLD US ABOUT, THE W. T. FUGARWE LODGE - WE WANDERED DOWN ANOTHER DIRT ROAD TO THE LODGE WHERE WE FOUND DOC BAILEY BARBEQUEING RIBS FOR HIS EVENING GUESTS - DOC, AND HIS WIFE RUTHANNE, "RETIRED" AT AGE 60 FROM HIS AIRLINE PILOT JOB IN 1983 AND STARTED THIS FISHING LODGE FIGURING THEY WOULD WORK THREE MONTHS OF THE YEAR AND PLAY THE REST OF THE TIME - NOW THEY ARE CATERING FOR UP TO 25 GUESTS AND WORKING HARDER THAN THEY EVER DID - REALLY NICE PEOPLE!
- ON THE WAY BACK TO THE BOAT WE WERE OFFERED A RIDE BY A YOUNG MAN, MORGAN DUBEAU, WHO TOOK US ALL THE WAY OUT TO THE PIER IN HIS PICKUP - HE CAME DOWN FOR A CHAT AND SHORT TOUR OF THE BOAT - NICE KID! - AFTER HE LEFT WE DECIDED TO GAMBLE ON THE WEATHER AND STAY AT THE DOCK SO HAD A SALMON DINNER AND PLAYED GIN 'TILL BEDTIME (LOIS WHIPPED ME!)
0800 - DOC SHOWS UP WITH ALL THE FISHERMEN & LADIES, GETS THEM OFF AND THEN CAME IN FOR A CUP OF COFFEE WITH US - GOT A BETTER CHANCE TO GET ACQUAINTED - HE TOLD US HOW HIS LODGE BECAME THE HEADQUARTERS OF THE "ALASKA HALIBUT SOCIETY" - SEEMS THAT IN THE LATE SEVENTIES, WHEN THE FISHING WAS REALLY GOING TO HELL AT WESTPORT, SOME OF THE LOCAL ALASKA CHARTER FISHING OUTFITS TALKED THE LEGISLATURE INTO PASSING A LAW LIMITING THE NUMBER OF POLES ON A CHARTER BOAT TO SIX - THE SOLE PURPOSE BEING TO KEEP THE BIG WESTPORT BOATS FROM HEADING NORTH AND COMPETING WITH THE EXISTING CHARTERS - DOC HAD ALREADY BOUGHT HIS BOAT (WHICH CAN HANDLE UP TO 25) AND HAD NO SUCCESS IN TALKING THE LEGISLATURE INTO CHANGING THE PROTECTIONIST BILL SO HE FORMED THE PRIVATE "ALASKA HALIBUT SOCIETY" OF WHICH ALL HIS GUESTS BECOME MEMBERS - HE DOESN'T EVEN HAVE TO HAVE A COMMERCIAL LICENCE! - QUITE A GUY!
0900 - DEPARTED GUSTAVES - THE WEATHERMAN WAS RIGHT - IT'S A CRUDDY DAY
1030 - FOUND OUR WAY INTO BARTLETT COVE WITH THE AID OF RADAR - RAIN, SLOP, SLOP - DOCKED AT THE BIG FLOAT, GOT OUR BRIEFING FROM A PRETTY YOUNG LADY RANGER NAMED DENA MATKIN, THEN WENT UP TO THE LODGE TO CALL DAD - AFTER THAT WE ANCHORED OUT IN THE COVE AND SPENT THE REST OF THE DAY SITTING AROUND READING ALL THE GLACIER BAY LITERATURE - LEARNED MORE ABOUT GLACIERS THAN I EVER KNEW I WANTED TO KNOW!
0910 - HRO ON - THE WATER AT THE LODGE TASTED SO BAD I DIDN'T WANT TO FILL THE TANK - RUNNING UP THE BAY THE WATER IS A LITTLE TURQUOIS BUT LOOKS PRETTY CLEAR
1215 - HRO OFF - TANK FULL - HEARD A CALL FROM THE ROTTERDAM FURTHER UP TOWARD THE WEST ARM - STARTING TO SEE A SMALL BERG NOW AND THEN
1400 - NEARING REID GLACIER GETTING LOTS OF SMALL ICE BUT VERY FEW BIGGER THAN A SKIFF AND NONE LIKE THE MONSTERS WE SAW IN TRACY - LOTS OF DARK BERGS FILLED WITH SAND AND GRAVEL - ONLY AN OCCASIONAL ONE WITH BLUE IN IT - ANOTHER BOAT FOLLOWING US NOW - THE "SAINT JUDE" WHICH WE FOUND IS FROM FRIDAY HARBOR
- PICKED OUT WAY ALMOST TO THE BEND GOING TO THE JOHNS HOPKINS GLACIER AND GAVE UP - CALLED THE ROTTERDAM AND HE SAID THERE WAS TOO MUCH ICE FOR HIM ALSO AND HE SUGGESTED TARR INLET LEADING TO THE GRAND PACIFIC AND THE MARGERIE GLACIERS - SO OFF WE WENT IN THAT DIRECTION - GOT WITHIN ABOUT TWO MILES BEFORE ICE GOT THICKER THAN WE FELT COMFORTABLE WITH - TOOK SOME PICTURES OF THE "SAINT JUDE" AND THEY TOOK OURS - BY THE TIME WE HEADED BACK MUCH OF THE ICE HAD MAGICLY DISAPPEARED! STILL DON'T UNDERSTAND WHERE IT ALL WENT
1700 - DECIDED TO GET A BETTER LOOK AT REID SO WENT IN THE INLET AND UP TO ABOUT 3/4 MILE FROM THE FACE - IT ISN'T CALVING OFF GREAT CHUNKS OF ICE - IT SEEMS MORE OF A JUMBLE - STILL PRETTY IMPRESSIVE - IT'S HARD TO IMAGINE THAT 100 YEARS AGO THIS BAY WAS STILL FULL OF ICE!
1930 - ANCHORED IN BLUE MOUSE COVE ABOUT TEN MILES DOWN BAY - HAD SALMON FOR DINNER AGAIN THEN PUT DOWN THE METZELER AND WENT OVER TO THE "SAINT JUDE" FOR A VISIT WITH VERGIL AND JUDY HANNEN - THEY ARE RETIRED, HAVE A HOME IN FRIDAY HARBOR, AND ARE ON THEIR FIRST TRIP TO ALASKA - THEIR BOAT, A 50 FOOT DE FEVER, IS A BEAUTY! THEY SEND US HOME WITH FOUR BIG CRAB
- JUST A LITTLE DISAPPOINTED IN GLACIER BAY - GUESS I WAS EXPECTING SOMETHING MORE SPECTACULAR OF A NATIONAL PARK AND WE WERE SPOILED BY TRACY AND ENDICOTT - THE REMARKABLE THING ABOUT GLACIER IS THE VEGETATION WHICH, BECAUSE OF THE RECENT RETREAT OF THE ICE, SHOWS A COMPLETE RECORD OF MAMA NATURE COVERING UP RAW EARTH WITH HER GREEN BLANKET IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST
1200 - DECIDED TO TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE GOOD WEATHER AND SEE MUIR INLET - SEVERAL WHALES FEEDING ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE CHANNEL - PRETTIER VIEW THAN YESTERDAY, I THINK! THE CASEMENT GLACIER DECORATES THE HEAD OF THE INLET PROVIDING A NICE SCENE ALL THE WAY UNTIL YOU GET CLOSE TO MC BRIDE AND REED GLACIERS
1400 - AT THE BEND - NOT AS MUCH ICE TODAY AND EASIER TO RUN - IT'S HARD TO BELIEVE THAT THE FACE OF MUIR WAS HERE IN 1960 - NOW IT IS FIVE MILES TO THE WEST! - THE WALLS OF THE FIORD LOOK MUCH LIKE MOUNT ST. HELENS! TWO GLACIERS HERE, MC BRIDE AND REED - BOTH ARE TIDEWATER BUT DUMPING THEIR LOADS INTO SMALL POOLS IN THE MORAINE SO ONLY SMALL CHUNKS OF ICE CAN BE FLOATED OUT AT HIGH TIDE
1500 - AT THE HEAD OF THE INLET AND MUIR GLACIER - IT IS SPECTACULAR! BEST WE'VE SEEN IN GLACIER BAY - I'D GUESS TWO MILES ACROSS THE FACE AND A COUPLE OF HUNDRED FEET HIGH - HUNDREDS OF SEALS ON ICE FLOES IN THE LAST THREE MILES OF THE HEAD - MANY WITH PUPS - MUIR LOOKS LIKE IT COULD CALVE LARGE BERGS BUT WE SEE NONE THE SIZE OF THOSE IN TRACY
1700 - ON THE WAY OUT WE STOP AND CHECK GOOSE COVE WHERE THE PILOT SAYS THERE IS A RANGER OUTPOST - COULDN'T SEE ANYTHING AND THE COVE IS TOO DEEP AND NARROW FOR US TO ANCHOR SO IT'S ON TO SOUTH SANDY COVE THREE HOURS AWAY!
1815 - DECIDED TO CHECK OUT HUNTER COVE, ANOTHER POSSIBLE ANCHORAGE NOT MENTIONED BY CHARLEY - THIS ONE WORKS OUT AND IT'S A BEAUTY - OPEN TO THE SW BUT OTHERWISE A PERFECT SETTING WITH VIEWS RANGING FROM A GLACIER IN THE DISTANCE TO HARBOR PORPOISES FEEDING ALL AROUND US - TOOK THE METZELER TO THE BEACH TO CHECK OUT WHAT LOOKED LIKE PURPLE ROCKS AND FOUND, AS I SHOULD HAVE KNOWN, MILLIONS OF TINY MUSSELS - WE DINE ON THE CRAB VIRGIL GAVE US LAST NIGHT
1000 - MY CHECK OF THE ENGINE ROOM TURNS UP A VIBRATING GMC GENERATOR AGAIN! - THIS TIME THE FORWARD HINGE BOLT HAS WORKED LOOSE AND IS GONE - IN THE BILGE AND I HAVE NO SPARE! - WE SHUT DOWN AND I FISH FOR IT WITH THE MAGNET UNTIL I LET THE STRING ON THE MAGNET SLIP OUT OF MY HAND! BY THIS TIME I'M DRIPPING WET FROM SWEAT IN THE SAHNA OF THE ENGINE ROOM SO I TIE THE BELT BACK AND WE HEAD FOR A SPOT TO ANCHOR
1115 - ANCHORED IN SEBREE COVE AND I'M BACK IN THE ENGINE ROOM FISHING NOW FOR THE MAGNET WITH A WRENCH ON A STRING - SUCCESS! NOW FOR THE NUT AND BOLT - TAKES A WHILE, AND ONE TRIP TOPSIDE TO COOL OFF, BUT WE FINALLY FIND ALL BUT THE LOCK WASHER AND GET IT ALL BACK TOGETHER
1300 - ON OUR WAY OUT OF THE COVE A WHALE SURFACES JUST OUTSIDE THE ENTRANCE - WE RUN INTO TIDAL INLET AS FAR AS THE BIGHT ON THE SOUTH SIDE THEN BACK OUT AND DOWN THE BAY - BY THIS TIME IT IS GETTING A BIT FOGGY WITH VISIBILITY DOWN TO ABOUT TWO MILES IN LIGHT RAIN - NOT MUCH FOR SIGHTSEEING! WE DECIDE TO HEAD FOR BARTLETT AND SEE IF WE CAN GET IN A CALL TO GIRL FRIDAY
1645 - OBVIOUS THAT WE CAN'T MAKE OUR CALLS TONIGHT (SEATTLE IS AN HOUR AHEAD OF US) SO WE DECIDE TO GO INTO BERG BAY - IT'S A SHALLOW ENTRANCE BUT MINIMUM 18 FEET AND INSIDE IT IS REALLY PRETTY - WE ANCHOR ON A BIGHT JUST INSIDE THE SOUTH ENTRANCE BEHIND THE ISLAND AND EAT POLLACK A LA LOIS FOR DINNER THEN WATCH SOUND OF MUSIC COURTESY OF DICK AND ALLYN
1845 - TWO WHALES ENTERING THE BAY THOUGH THE SHALLOW WATER JUST BEHIND US - ONE DOES SEVERAL "HALF" BREECHES, SORT OF FLINGING HIS TAIL AND AFT BODY INTO THE AIR AND BRINGING IT DOWN SIDEWAYS TO MAKE A BIG SLASH
0800 - TAKE THE METZELER OUT TO THE ENTRANCE TO CHECK IT AT LOW TIDE - WE WERE PRETTY MUCH ON TARGET LAST NIGHT - COULD BE MAYBE A LITTLE FURTHER OFF THE NORTH SHORE
1000 - HEADING OUT OF THE BAY WE SPOT ONE OF OUR WHALES AGAIN - RUNNING AGAINST THE TIDE PAST STRAWBERRY ISLAND WE FIND WE ARE ONLY DOING 2.5 KNOTS - TOOK US TWO HOURS TO GET TO THE MOUTH OF BARTLETT COVE
1230 - DOCKED AT BARTLETT WHERE WE CALLED GIRL FRIDAY AND JEFF HANSEN AND I CLEANED THE HRO FILTERS - THE FIRST WAS FAIRLY CRUDDY BUT THE FINE FILTER LOOKED VERY CLEAN IN SPITE OF OUR RUNNING THE HRO IN THE TURQUOISE WATER
1330 - CHECKED OUT OF GLACIER AND RAN OUT TO CAROLUS POINT WHERE WE TRIED FOR A HALIBUT - NO LUCK
1530 - GAVE UP AND DECIDED TO FIND A PLACE TO ANCHOR - JEFF MC INTIRE TOLD US ABOUT FERN COVE SO WE HEADED OUT THERE - RAN INTO A LOW SWELL AS WE CAME PAST THE INIAN ISLANDS BUT IT WAS SO LONG WE HARDLY FELT IT
1730 - FERN COVE - NEAT PLACE JUST OFF CROSS SOUND WITH A SUPER VIEW OF THE BERRY GLACIER - BERRY IS TWO MILES WIDE AND 400 FEET HIGH - WE ANCHORED WHERE WE COULD SEE BOTH BERRY TO THE NORTH AND ELFIN COVE TO THE SOUTH - LITTLE BIT OF ROLLING IN THE NIGHT WHEN THE BOAT WOULD GET ACROSS THE SLIGHT SWELL COMING INTO THE COVE BUT IT'S LIKE GRANDMA'S ROCKER
1000 - DOCKED AT ELFIN COVE - WHAT A NEAT PLACE - FROM WHERE WE TIED UP AT THE TRANSIENT FLOAT WE LOOK DIRECTLY ACROSS TO TAYLOR BAY AND THE BRADY GLACIER WITH A BACKGROUND OF JAGGED SNOW COVERED PEAKS - WALKING BACK UP THE FLOAT AND PIER PUTS US ON A CIRCULAR BOARDWALK WHICH LEADS PAST A LIBRARY, SMALL STORES, THE POST OFFICE, A LAUNDRY, A CAFE, A GROCERY, ALL THE FISHING FLOATS AND BACK TO THE HEAD OF OUR FLOAT - IT'S A FISHING COMMUNITY WITH BOTH COMMERCIAL FISHERMEN AND SPORT FISHING CHARTERS BUSILY GOING EVERY WHICH WAY - A COUPLE OF LODGES HOUSE LOTS OF PEOPLE LOOKING FOR GOOD FISHING
- AS WE DOCK WE ARE HELPED BY A YOUNG COUPLE, ULRICH BRINER AND MARGOT PAGE, WHO ARE ON THE SAILBOAT "SEEADLER II" FROM BASEL SWITZERLAND - ULRICH LEFT THE MEDITERRANEAN IN 1980 AND THEY HAVE SAILED THE EAST COAST OF NORTH AMERICA, THROUGH THE PANAMA, AND CLOCKWISE AROUND THE PACIFIC INCLUDING TAHITI AND JAPAN - IN THE EVENING THEY CAME TO OUR BOAT FOR A DRINK BEFORE DINNER AND LATER WE WENT TO THEIRS FOR COFFEE - FUN TALKING TO SOMEONE WHO HAS ACTUALLY BEEN OFFSHORE
- THE EAST SHORE OF THE HARBOR IS A MOUNTAIN OF JUMBLED ROCK OVER WHICH HUGE CEDARS, HEMLOCKS, AND FIRS HAVE GROWN FORMING MOSS AND FERN COVERED CAVERNS WHERE THE ELFES MUST LIVE - A DOZEN SMALL STREAMS RUSH DOWN THE MOUNTAIN AND UNDER THE BOARDWALK INTO THE HARBOR - THE GROUND IS COVERED WITH TINY (3 INCH HIGH) DOGWOODS, EACH WITH A SINGLE, FOUR PEDALED, WHITE BLOSSOM - BERRIES ARE FORMING ON BUSHES ALL ALONG THE TRAIL - HUCKLEBERRIES, SALMONBERRIES, THISTLEBERRIES, BLUE BERRIES, AND WILD STRAWBERRIES - NOT RIPE YET, BUT SOON!
- BUNCH OF INTERESTING BOATS ON THE DOCK TODAY - THE "RONSHEROD" FROM BLAINE ON THE WAY TO VALDEZ, A CRABBER FROM WEST PORT, THE "MS. DAVENE", AND LATE IN THE DAY ANOTHER SKOOKUM 53, THE "GAIL" OUT OF JUNEAU, SHOWED UP - IT IS A KETCH RIGGED FISH BOAT BEING RUN BY A SEMI-RETIRED DOCTOR - HE ISN'T A SAILOR AND HAS NEVER SAILED IT BUT HE BOUGHT IT FOR $135,000 AND SAYS IT MAKES A GOOD FISH BOAT EXCEPT FOR THE FACT THAT IT ROLLS TOO FAST
- OUT ON THE DOCK AFTER DINNER HELPED A KID ABOUT 16 NAMED JASON CARTER LEARN TO WATER SKI - HE HAD GOTTEN HOLD OF A VERY BEATUP OLD PAIR OF SKIS, HAD A LINE WITH A FISHING FLOAT TIED TO THE END, AND A SKIFF WITH A HARDLY RUNNING SUZUKI OUTBOARD ON IT - NEITHER HE NOR THE KID DRIVING THE BOAT HAD EVER SEEN ANYONE WATER SKI - HE WAS IN A DIVER'S DRY SUIT SO DIDN'T SEEM TO BE BOTHERED BY THIS 40 DEGREE WATER - HE WAS UP ON THE THIRD TRY - HIS MOTHER, A NICE LITTLE BLOND NAMED DEBBIE, WAS NERVOUS AS A CAT ON A TIN ROOF WATCHING THE KIDS DODGE THE ROCKS, KELP, AND FISHING BOATS - THEY LIVE IN TENAKEE AND WORK HERE AT ELFIN COVE FOR EXCURSION INLET PACKING DURING THE SUMMER WHILE HIS DAD FISHES UP NORTH - JASON WOULD BE WITH HIS DAD BUT HE HAS A SEA SICKNESS PROBLEM
- GOT TO TALKING TO A DENTIST FROM SITKA IN A SKOOKUM 34, THE "FINALE", WHO SHOWED ME HOW TO GET OUT OF THE SOUTH ENTRANCE TO LISIANSKI STRAIT AND SOME NICE PLACES TO GO LIKE WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS - HIS NAME IS KEN CAMERON AND HE WAS RAISED WITH GENE RIGGS, ONE OF OUR NEIGHBORS AT CREST
1630 - NETTLETONS SHOW UP ON WINGS OF ALASKA WITH ED ???????? - WE HAVE A DRINK TO CELEBRATE, TAKE THE GRAND TOUR OF ELFIN COVE, THEN HAVE A SUPER DINNER BY LOIS OF CAJON PRAWNS FOLLOWED BY LIME PIE - KEPT ME UP 'TILL 11:00 PM
1100 - LOOKING LIKE FOG IS BEGINNING TO LIFT SO WE DECIDE TO FISH FOR A WHILE OUTSIDE THE COVE UNTIL IT IS CLEARED ENOUGH TO SEE THE BRADY GLACIER - WE NO SOONER GOT OUT AND THE LINES IN THE WATER THAN IT STARTED GETTING REALLY FOGGY! AFTER ABOUT A HALF HOUR WE DECIDED TO BAG IT AND HEAD BACK IN TO WAIT IT OUT - DIDN'T REALIZE WE HAD FISHED SO FAR AND ELFIN WAS A LITTLE HARD TO FIND ON THE RADAR - SPOOKY!
1230 - BACK IN THE COVE - JUDY WENT OUT WALKING WHILE THE REST OF US SAT AROUND AND READ
1530 - FOG LIFTING NOW - CAN'T SEE THE TOPS OF THE HILLS BUT HAVE ABOUT FIVE MILES ON THE WATER SO WE DECIDE TO BAG THE GLACIER TOUR AND HEAD FOR PELICAN - WENT DOWN THE WEST SIDE INTO PORT ALTHORP BEHIND THREE TREE ISLAND AND OUT THE PASSAGE INTO CROSS SOUND - GOT SUPRISINGLY ROUGH FOR ONLY 10-15 KNOT WINDS BUT WE HAD THE STABIES DOWN AND WE RODE WELL FOR THE HALF HOUR IT TOOK TO GET AROUND INTO LIZIANSKI INLET - THE REST OF THE RUN WAS UNEVENTFUL - WHAT WE COULD SEE OF YAKOBI ISLAND SURE LOOKED NEAT!
1730 - DOCKED AT PELICAN - NICE DOCKS WITH LOTS OF OPEN TRANSIENT SLIPS - ALL HAVE POWER AND WATER - KEN CAMERON, OUR SITKA DENTIST FRIEND, CALLED AS WE WERE ENTERING THE HARBOR AND STEERED US IN - WE ALL WALKED UP THE DOCKS TO ANOTHER SUPER BOARDWALK TOWN!
PELICAN IS BUILT ON THE SIDE OF A MOUNTAIN AND IS ALMOST TOTALLY OVER THE WATER - ALL THE HOUSES ARE ON PILINGS ALONG SIDE OF A BIG BOARDWALK THAT LOOKS A LOT LIKE THE PIERS AT HERMOSA AND MANHATTAN BEACHES WHERE I WAS RAISED - OTHER THAN FOR THE SCHOOL, A HANDFUL OF HOUSES ON THE HILLSIDE, THE FIREHOUSE, AND A FEW MORE HOUSES ON WIDOW AVENUE OUT AT WHISKEY FLATS, EVERYTHING IS ON PILINGS - IT'S A CANNERY TOWN AND THAT FACILITY TERMINATES ONE END OF THE WALK - WHISKEY FLATS AND A BEAUTIFUL RUSHING RIVER WHICH PROVIDES BOTH POWER AND WATER TO THE TOWN, IS AT THE OTHER
| WE WALKED THE LENGTH OF THE BOARDWALK THEN WENT TO ROSE'S BAR AND GRILL FOR A DRINK - ROSE'S IS IN ALL THE GUIDE BOOKS AND DOES HAVE SOME CHARACTER! LOOKS LIKE EVERYONE WHO EVER WENT IN THERE HAS THEIR NAME WRITTEN ON THE WALL OR CEILING - BARTENDER SAYS WE SHOULD STAY FOR ROSE'S ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION ON THE 3RD AND INDEPENDANCE DAY ON THE FOURTH - GUESS THEY HAVE A REAL BLOWOUT! | 
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ANOTHER VERY NICE SKOOKUM 53 FISHING BOAT WITH A KETCH RIG ON THE FLOAT NEXT TO US, THE "BLUE DOLPHIN" - IT'S RUN BY A 73 YEAR OLD MAN, TRAVIS HOUSE, AND HIS WIFE FROM EPHRATA, WASHINGTON - HE SAYS HIS SAILS ARE "COSMETIC" AND LIKED THE IDEA OF OUR BOAT A LOT - HIS BOAT IS FOR SALE FOR $225,000 MORE?